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Seeds and sowing

SEEDS OF OWN COLLECTION AND PURCHASED

Seeds of one's own collection will certainly give better results than purchased ones, if they are collected with skill and attention; Mass production of seeds can never provide such care for seed plants as in your own farm. As an exception, one should point to seeds, the production of which is associated with the installation of some kind of “devices Inaccessible to ordinary farming. In all other cases, one can warmly recommend growing seeds at home, if local climatic conditions make this activity possible. There is still a lot to argue about the constant cultivation of seeds in this economy.If the plants have come to terms with climatic and soil conditions and in the first years of cultivation in a new place did not show a tendency to degenerate, then there will be no degeneration in the future if we treat the matter with full attention "Only some plants (very few) from the very first year of cultivation from the seeds of their collection give a significant percentage of specimens deviating from the type. Such seeds will have to be written out, but at the same time, careful selection should try to acclimatize them. The properties of plants reproduced by seeds are erased only

in distant generations, and even then as a result of bad, inattentive care. We do not have the means to prevent degeneration, which depends on the characteristics of the climate, but this circumstance becomes clear in the first years of culture. Degeneration is observed in the following cases: 1) if a plant, characteristic exclusively of the south, is cultivated for seeds in the north, and vice versa; 2) plants that cannot tolerate clay, calcareous or other soils fall on these soils. If, however, plants of outstanding quality, and typical ones, are obtained from the seeds of one's own collection, nothing prevents them from preserving them and improving them by careful selection of seeds.

checking seeds for germination. Even the freshest seeds should be checked for germination, because it can depend on many factors. Seeds are especially carefully checked after an unsuccessful summer or during machine cleaning, where a certain percentage is invariably subjected to mechanical damage. In addition to the proven methods for determining germination, there are many signs by which the suitability of seed grain is judged. First of all, pay attention to the comparative size of the seeds, their color and shine. These features can serve as a basis for seed evaluation only if the collection conditions are well known: in wet and dry summers, the appearance of the seeds of some plants is significantly different. The color of the seeds can be especially deceptive. For example, the opinion is firmly established that dark clover seeds are better than light ones, while careful observations show the opposite: light seeds give more seeds and more hay. One cannot agree with the opinion that the best seeds should sink in water, while the seeds that remain on the surface of the water are not germinating. Dozens of times I tested the ability of seeds to germinate by the methods indicated and positively convinced that this method is no good: the seeds remaining on the surface germinate perfectly and give quite satisfactory plants, unless they are damaged by insects. There is another method of testing seeds with water. perhaps true, but applicable only to very large seeds.Seeds are poured into water, and those of them, near which an almost microscopic air bubble forms, are recognized as germinating.

way to find out the germination rate of seeds. To achieve this goal, a method is proposed based on the changes that occur with the seeds during combustion. bad, inconsistent

seeds burn slowly, with little smoke development. Germinating seeds bounce, turn over and burn with a crash, which is stronger, the larger the seeds. Small seeds are placed one by one on hot coals; larger ones, such as seeds of oak, chestnuts, are thrown directly into the fire and carefully observe the phenomena during combustion. With small ones, what is said above happens; the larger ones jump in the fire.

METHODS FOR DETERMINING THE QUALITY OF SOWING SEEDS.

Such methods include a germination test/take a certain number of seeds from a sample and sow them in bowls or pots placed in a warm place. Then, according to the number of germinated seeds, a conclusion is made about the percentage of their germination, and therefore, about the degree of quality factor of the test sample. If the seeds are very small, for the same purpose they are placed between two cloths or felts moistened with water and notice how many of them will sprout. Noteworthy is the method recommended by Dijon as quite suitable for guidance. The seeds to be determined are placed on hot coals, even better, on a hot iron sheet: if the seeds simply char, that is, burn quietly, without swelling and crackling, then they are worthless and lack the ability to germinate. Seeds suitable for germination under the same conditions swell and burn with a bang, bouncing. To determine the quality factor of large seeds (acorns, chestnuts, etc.), they are thrown directly into a burning stove: the bad ones burn without noise, like paper; the good ones burst with a more or less strong crack, as they say, they shoot.

seed preparation tosowing. Seeds of many garden and tree species germinate much more successfully if they are properly prepared before sowing. Early sown and soon emerging seeds, such as cabbages, turnips, rutabaga, do not require any pre-treatment before sowing. On the other hand, the germination of slowly germinating seeds - carrots, onions, parsley, celery, and others - if soaked before sowing, can be accelerated by several days, which in many cases is, of course, an important benefit. To soak the seeds, pure rain or melt water is used, and in the absence of such, soft pond or river water. There are observations showing that the snow, when melted, works especially well on hard seeds and is therefore successfully applied to both soaking and coating.

potted seeds instead of watering. The amount of water used for soaking should be several times the volume of seeds. If, after more or less prolonged soaking of the seeds, the water turns brown, it should be replaced with fresh water. Soaking is carried out at a temperature corresponding to seed germination. As for the duration of soaking, this is determined by the degree of hardness - one hundred seeds. It is not difficult to find out when they are completely wet by their appearance: their volume increases significantly, the grain softens, which in large flour seeds, such as peas, occurs in half a day. Cruciferous seeds usually require no more than a day; onion - from 2 to 3 days, and rosaceous, like strawberries, raspberries and blackberries - from 3 to 5 days. But the seeds of some plants, such as Turkish beans and semi-tropical plants in general, easily rot from urination and it is better not to wet them at all.

seed stratification. Seeds of fruit trees germinate only if they are sown soon after they are harvested. It would seem that this property is not difficult, it is only necessary to produce timely autumn sowing. In practice, however, there are difficulties, partly because the seeds sown are very often damaged by mice. It is often difficult to have a plot fully prepared for sowing in the fall;

also very early frosts and other reasons can interfere with autumn sowing. Thus, it is necessary to postpone sowing until spring, but in order for the seeds to germinate in the spring, they must be subjected to stratification. Without this technique, the seeds sown in the spring will lie in the ground for a whole summer, autumn and winter and will sprout only in the spring of the next year, and even then it is unsatisfactory, since many seeds die from a long lying in the ground. Stratification, or sanding, consists in the fact that the seeds intended for spring sowing are not stored in dry form, but mixed with wet sand, that is, they are, as it were, subjected to autumn sowing. Seeds can be stratified in two ways: either by distributing them in a box or in a flower pot in layers (a layer of sand, a layer of seeds), or by pre-mixing with three to four times the amount of sand. Stratification should be done as early as possible and, in any case, no later than December. Stratified seeds are preserved while maintaining moderate humidity and at low temperatures (in the basement, front, etc.). The likelihood of success will be higher if stratified seeds are subjected to at least a short time.

nomu (2-3 days) frost action. Seeds must be sown in the spring before they begin to germinate.

STRATIFICATION AS A WAY TO ACCELERATE SEEDS GERMINATION. The choice of dishes for stratification and its installation depends on local conditions: you can take boxes, baskets, flower pots, etc. It is only necessary that the bottom of the vessel has holes, and below, under a rather thick layer, drainage from cuttings and the like would be placed material. Sand is poured over the drainage in a thick layer, along which large seeds are distributed separately from each other; then, covering them with sand, they put the second row of seeds, then sand again, a new row of seeds, etc., until the entire vessel is filled. The number of layers is determined by the permeability of the material used for pouring and the size of the seeds. The more permeable the material and the larger the seeds, the more layers can be placed on top of each other and the thicker each layer can be. For the largest seeds, the sand should not be thicker than 5 cm; the number of layers is not more than 6, otherwise the main condition, good ventilation, may not be achieved. Humidity should be uniform and not very high. The time of stratification depends on the rate of seed germination. The sooner the seed germinates, the later this operation should be started so that the root of the sprout does not lengthen too much by the time of sowing in an open place. The action of stratification can be accelerated by preliminary simultaneous wetting of the seeds, as well as by warming the vessel. It is best to stratify in the cellar. If we mean significant sowing of hard seeds, which should lie in the ground for a long time, then stratification is carried out in lined and covered pits.

easy way to stratify. Stratification can also be achieved in a more simplified way: it was possible to stratify the seeds of apple trees, mixing them three-quarters from autumn with black earth, and this mixture was poured into bags sewn from coarse canvas. The bags were filled so incompletely that they could be well spread out on the ground with a layer of 7-9 cm. The bags, of course, are sewn up, and spread out on the ground with a small depression in the middle. In the spring, when the snow melts early, the latter pounces on the bags until it is time for sowing. For stratification, you need to choose a place in the shade, where the spring sun does not have a strong effect. The advantage of this method is that

PRESERVATION FOR WINTER STONE SEEDS FOR SPRING

sowing. Freshly harvested bones should be immediately stratified, i.e., layered with sand. If there are few seeds, then they are stratified in pots, which are then buried in pits. If they want to save a large number of seeds, then they use baskets or simply holes in the ground. In both cases, an elevated place is chosen to store the seeds, where water would not linger. Pots or baskets with seeds interspersed with sand are buried to a depth of 70 cm so that the seeds cannot freeze for the winter. In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, they dig out the seeds, which usually germinate by this time, and immediately sow them to a depth of 4.5 cm in prepared ridges with transverse grooves. The distance between the last ones is 22-23 cm, and the seeds are planted from each other at a distance of 4.5 cm, after which they are covered with ridge soil, if it is light, and if it is heavy, clayey, then with compost. Then, if the soil is dry, abundant watering is carried out and the ridges are shaded from above with a mat or simply brushwood, which is removed with the emergence of seedlings, and then it remains only to monitor the cleanliness of the ridges so that weeds do not drown out young plants.

GERMINATION OF HARD SKIN SEEDS, IN PARTICULAR ROSE. Hard-skinned seeds, as is known, are characterized by very slow germination, and it is often necessary to resort to artificial measures in order to hasten their germination. The most practiced with success of such measures is the cutting or sawing of the hard skin. All hard-skinned seeds (acacia, canna, etc.) on the side from which the sprout breaks through, are equipped with a slight elevation; in this particular place, the hard skin is carefully cut or filed until the inner thin layer is exposed, and in this form the seed is planted in the ground with moderate heat; then, after a few days, it germinates instead of lying in the ground, not being touched for many weeks, as is usually the case with hard-skinned seeds that have not been subjected to the above manipulation. There are, however, seeds that are particularly difficult to germinate. lie in the ground for two or three years before they sprout.To speed up germination, rosehip seeds should be washed with water and discarded those that float to the ground.

water surface. Then the remaining seeds (settled to the bottom) are transferred to a glass vessel with a ground stopper, poured with sulfuric acid, diluted with rain water (17 g of acid and 26 g of water are taken for 400 g of seeds), and the vessel is tightly corked. After 10-12 days, the liquid is drained, the seeds are transferred to a box filled with loose earth or sand, and covered with moss on top, kept in a warm place until sowing time. Sowing is done on a shaded ridge and requires good and accurate watering so that the earth always remains damp. Rosehip seeds prepared in this way, instead of two or three years, germinate in two, less often in three months.

METHOD FOR IMPROVING FOREST WOOD SPECIES SEEDINGS. A batch of seeds is soaked for 1-3 days in water and then laid out in a thin layer in a shaded place. The spread out seeds are turned over with a rake and watered. When the shell of some seeds bursts, it is possible to start sowing, and in the grooves prepared in the usual way and spaced from one another by 7-^-9 cm, swollen seeds are placed at a distance of 1 cm for shade-tolerant breeds and 2 cm for light-loving. Sowing due to uneven swelling of seeds has to be stretched for several days. 1 rows on which swollen seeds are sown should certainly be watered before germination. With this method of sowing, it was possible to obtain from hundreds of sown, therefore, germinating seeds, from 82 to 96 one-year-old seedlings. True, the indicated method is troublesome, but it fully pays off with the results, since it gives the maximum number of shoots from the available number of sown seeds, not to mention the fact that such sowing is cheaper than the picks practiced by gardeners. In particular, this method is recommended for the cultivation of seedlings of forest species with poor germination, such as, for example, Siberian larch, the seeds of which are characterized by extremely poor germination and very high cost.

An easy way to speed up seed germination. Seeds of apple or pear trees are placed in a glass filled up to half with water, and kept in this form at ordinary room temperature. When the water begins to deteriorate, which is recognizable by its putrid odor, it is carefully drained and replaced with fresh water. After two weeks, white sprouts will appear. Then, draining the water, the seeds are carefully transferred to the canvas so as not to damage the delicate sprouts and allowed to dry slightly, after which they are immediately sown.

that the seeds germinate evenly and quickly. When removing germinated seeds from bags, they should be selected carefully so as not to damage the roots.

The manual is based on 40 years of personal experience and observations of the author in growing vegetables in the open field. The features of the garden organization, its natural and artificial protection are considered. The crop rotation in the garden is described. The features of spring and autumn tillage are shown. The soil fertilization with manure, humus, bird droppings, sod, peat, etc. is considered. The arrangement of nurseries and devices for heat-loving plants is given. The features of growing about 60 species of annual and perennial crops are described. The cleaning and winter storage of vegetables, diseases of garden plants, as well as the main pests of garden plants and proven methods of dealing with them are considered. The 8th edition provides modern units of measure. For a wide range of readers.

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by the LitRes company.

Preface to the 7th edition

The first edition of my "Practical Gardening" was published in 1908 in the amount of 10,000 copies. The second edition in 1910 in the amount of 20,000 copies, the third in 1914 - in the amount of 35,000 copies. The fourth edition of the Commissariat for Agriculture of the Union of Communes of the Northern Region, at the request of this institution, was reduced and adapted for the general population of the northern and, partly, middle provinces: published in 1919, in the amount of 10,000 copies. At the end of 1919, the labor artel "Rural Worker" published the 5th edition of this manual in an even more abridged form, in the amount of 10,000 copies. In 1921, the Moscow publishing house "Vozrozhdeniye" published the 6th edition of "Practical Gardening" by stereotype from the 4th edition.

This 7th edition of the Petrograd Branch of the State Publishing House comes out significantly supplemented and completely revised, under the title " northern gardening". This new title of my work shows that the revision was caused by the desire give, if possible, a complete guide to gardening exclusively for the Northern region of Russia.

In this edition, mainly personal, almost 40 years of experience and observations are used. The literature on horticulture until 1916–1917 was also widely used. At the end of the guide is the most important literature on gardening in Russian and three European languages; mainly drawings were borrowed, since, according to the conditions of the time being experienced, the edition had to be illustrated with old clichés.

I offer my sincere thanks to Prof. N. N. Bogdanov-Katkov and prof. G. N. Dorogin, who kindly agreed to write for my leadership chapters on pests and plant diseases and on tested, practical ways fight them.

For a soft Slavic nature, strong, sharp shocks are needed for a quick perception of something. The ongoing events that tore the north away from the grain-growing provinces made it necessary to sharply reassess the importance of vegetables in nutrition and to expand the northern garden crops at the most accelerated pace.

While from time immemorial vegetables have occupied one of the first places in the diet of the whole world, vegetables played an insignificant role in our diet until 1918. The peasantry always considered vegetable gardens to be a "woman's" thing, and the intelligentsia looked at vegetable gardens as a necessary evil. But thunder struck, and in one year we became "convinced" vegetarians: vegetables became the main product of our diet.

In order for a person to be able to eat quite satisfyingly and variedly throughout the year, receiving a little bread and fat a day, a garden of 75 square meters is needed. sazhens (340 sq. m.). From this amount of land you can get: 20 pounds (330 kg) of potatoes, 8 pounds (130 kg) of cabbage, 8 pounds of root crops, onions, garlic, pumpkins and cucumbers and 3 pounds (49 kg) of peas and beans. A tithe of land (about 1 ha) occupied by vegetables could feed up to 30 people, and all Northern region would easily feed the population of all of Russia!

Vegetables are reproached for their low percentage of proteins: while meat contains, on average, about 20% of proteins, vegetables contain only about 2.5%. At the same time, they forget that peas, beans and beans are also grown in the garden, and these vegetables contain over 20% of proteins! They forget that the protein in meat used to be very expensive, but now it is completely inaccessible to the majority of the population. They forget that fats and carbohydrates are needed to maintain warmth and generate muscle energy, and carbohydrates in vegetables are from 3 to 21%.

The latest research by German physiologists has also shown that the human body is particularly good at assimilating protein containing amino acids, which are abundant in fresh vegetables, especially potatoes, spinach, cauliflower and kohlrabi.

Ho amino acids are not present in dried vegetables. Therefore, if nutrition is more or less normal, and a person receives daily rye or wheat, not screened, bread, which is rich in amino acids, then dried vegetables can be fully recommended for nutrition.

Ho if the main food product is vegetables, almost at total absence bread fresh vegetables certainly deserve preference.

P. Steinberg

Petersburg,

Steinberg Pavel Nikolaevich(1867–1942), doctor of agricultural sciences, famous scientist, polymath and encyclopedist. Since 1919 he has been a professor at the Petrograd (Leningrad) Agricultural Institute (now St. Petersburg State Agrarian University). From 1922 to 1929 - the first head of the department of vegetable growing of this institute, taught a course on open and protected ground vegetable growing. Editor of the journal Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture. Peru of the scientist owns many articles and over one hundred and fifty books, from which millions of farmers have learned. At present, the collection “How to grow an excellent crop of vegetables and melons. Time-Tested Recipes”, which included four popular brochures by the author: “How to Grow Pound Cabbage” (1925), “How to Grow Three Pound Pumpkins and Good Cucumbers in the North. Guide for Peasants" (1925), "How to Get 1,500 Poods of Potatoes from Tithing" (1925), "How to Grow Large Watermelons, Melons, Pumpkins and Cucumbers" (1913).

Bogdanov-Katkov Nikolay Nikolayevich(1894 1955), doctor of agricultural sciences, professor, famous entomologist, Honored Scientist of the RSFSR, a pioneer in the broad organization of plant protection services in Russia. He was awarded the Orders of the Red Banner of Labour, the Badge of Honor and medals. In 1918 he organized Leningrad station plant protection, of which he was director for many years. He was the head of the Department of Plant Protection at the Peterhof Vegetable Institute and the Pushkin Agricultural Institute (SHI), as well as the Department of Agricultural Entomology at the Leningrad SHI. From 1945 to 1947 he was the rector of the Pushkin Agricultural Institute. In 1947 he headed the plant protection section of the All-Union Academy of Agricultural Sciences. V. I. Lenin. The list of published works of the scientist includes over a hundred titles on the taxonomy of insects, on measures to combat pests of agricultural crops, etc.

Dorogin Georgy Nikolaevich(1878–1932), Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, professor, famous phytopagologist, first assistant to the head of the Bureau of Mycology and Phytopathology (now the Laboratory of Mycology and Phytopathology of the All-Russian Research Institute of Plant Protection), author of numerous works on the treatment of plant diseases.

* * *

The given introductory fragment of the book Northern gardening. A practical guide to the proper arrangement of a garden and growing vegetable plants in the ground (P. N. Steinberg, 2011) is provided by our book partner -

Current page: 1 (total book has 38 pages) [accessible reading excerpt: 25 pages]

Everyday gardener's recipe. The gardener's golden book, time-tested

Foreword

The book you now hold in your hands was very popular back in pre-revolutionary Russia, because it was created on the basis of the best achievements of horticultural practice. And for almost a hundred years gardeners all over Russia have been using “everyday recipes”. The annotation to the book stated:

The purpose of the publication of the Gardener's Everyday Recipe is to provide horticulturalists and, to some extent, industrialists with the opportunity to benefit from the rich experience of well-known practitioners - gardeners and gardeners. To have at hand all the periodical literature, moreover, for several decades, is hardly accessible to an ordinary amateur or industrialist. Meanwhile, in the magazines of previous years, you can find a lot of precious tips and recipes, the application of which in practice will undoubtedly bring significant benefits. This circumstance prompted the editors of the journal Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture to instruct a group of employees to make a selection of more valuable material from horticultural journals for previous years, group this material into sections and study it in relation to the latest requirements of science and practice, trying to cover everything as far as possible. horticulture and horticulture industries.

In view of the fact that the staff of the Gardener's Everyday Recipe were mainly practicing gardeners, one can hope that only really practical and useful tips and recipes got into the publication.

P. N. Steinberg, editor of the Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture magazine, took over the general editorship of the Gardener’s Everyday Recipe.

St. Petersburg, 1911

It should be noted that in compiling this book, materials from Russian and foreign publications on agriculture, horticulture and horticulture were used. In particular, popular publications known at that time:

"Everyday recipe" by Mr. Elpe. Under the pseudonym Elpe, the well-known scientist and educator Lazar Konstantinovich Popov published his popular books and articles;

"Just in case" by Mr. A. N. Almedingen. The journalist and educator Aleksey Nikolaevich Almedingen (1855–1908) produced a huge number of popular publications for different people- from villagers to zemstvo chiefs. His most famous book is the Encyclopedia family education and learning”;

"Collection of Russian Literature on Gardening Techniques", published by the Imperial Russian society gardening, edited by I. I. Meshchersky. This book was published in 1900, and for a long time remained one of the most popular gardening books.

And many other publications.

Unfortunately, in the original edition, all the recipes were not properly structured, and readers had to look for the information they needed by repeatedly turning the pages of the book. In preparing this edition, we have streamlined the structure of the text, keeping the tips and recipes offered in the original edition unchanged. We hope that modern readers will find in this book a lot of useful and interesting things for themselves. For almost a hundred years, with the help of the recommendations of the authors of this book, hundreds of thousands of people have grown excellent gardens and orchards, increased the fertility of trees and shrubs, and successfully protected their crops from any natural adversity, whether it be temperature drops, hail, drought, floods, or harmful insects and animals. . Whether you are gardening, growing indoor flowers or planting flower beds, you will definitely find tips here that will help you and your plants. Have a rich harvest and good mood!

Tatiana Poloz, PhD, February 2010

Seeds and sowing

General measures

Quality factor of seedsSeeds of own collection and purchased

Seeds from your own collection will certainly give better results than purchased ones, if they are collected with skill and attention. Mass production of seeds can never provide such care for seed plants as in your own farm. As an exception, one should point to seeds, the production of which is associated with the installation of any devices that are inaccessible to ordinary farming. In all other cases, one can warmly recommend growing seeds at home, if local climatic conditions make this activity possible. There is still a lot to argue about the degeneration of plants with constant cultivation of seeds on a given farm. If the plants have come to terms with the climatic and soil conditions, and in the first years of cultivation in a new place have not shown a tendency to degenerate, then there will be no degeneration in the future if we take full care of the matter. Only some plants (very few) from the first year of cultivation from the seeds of their collection give a significant percentage of specimens that deviate from the type. Such seeds will have to be ordered, but at the same time, careful selection should try to acclimatize them. The properties of plants reproduced by seeds are erased only in distant generations, and even then as a result of bad, inattentive care. We do not have the means to prevent degeneration, which depends on the characteristics of the climate, but this circumstance becomes clear in the first years of culture. Degeneration is observed in the following cases:

If a plant peculiar exclusively to the south is cultivated for seed in the north, and vice versa;

Plants that cannot tolerate clay, calcareous or other soils fall on these soils.

If, however, plants of outstanding quality, and typical ones, are obtained from the seeds of one's own collection, nothing prevents them from preserving them and improving them by careful selection of seeds.

Methods for determining the quality factor of sowing seeds

Such methods include a germination test - a certain number of seeds are taken from a sample and sown in bowls or pots placed in a warm place. Then, according to the number of germinated seeds, a conclusion is made about the percentage of their germination, and therefore, about the degree of quality factor of the test sample. If the seeds are very small, for the same purpose they are placed between two cloths or felts moistened with water and notice how many of them will sprout. Noteworthy is the method recommended by Dijon as quite suitable for guidance. The seeds to be determined are placed on hot coals, even better - on a hot iron sheet: if the seeds simply char, that is, they burn quietly, without swelling and crackling, then they are worthless and lack the ability to germinate. Seeds suitable for germination under the same conditions swell and burn with a bang, bouncing. To determine the quality factor of large seeds (acorns, chestnuts, etc.), they are thrown directly into a burning stove: the bad ones burn without noise, like paper; the good ones burst with a more or less strong crack, as they say, "shoot".

Checking seeds for germination

Even the freshest seeds should be checked for germination, because it can depend on many factors. Seeds are especially carefully checked after an unsuccessful summer or during machine cleaning, where a certain percentage is invariably subjected to mechanical damage. In addition to the proven methods for determining germination, there are many signs by which the suitability of seed grain is judged. First of all, pay attention to the comparative size of the seeds, their color and shine. These features can serve as a basis for seed evaluation only if the collection conditions are well known: in wet and dry summers, the appearance of the seeds of some plants is significantly different. The color of the seeds can be especially deceptive. For example, the opinion is firmly established that dark clover seeds are better than light ones, while careful observations show the opposite: light seeds give more seeds and more hay. It is impossible to agree with the opinion that the best seeds should sink in water, while the seeds remaining on the surface of the water are not germinating. Dozens of times I tested the ability of seeds to germinate in the ways indicated and positively convinced that this method is no good: the seeds that remain on the surface germinate perfectly and give quite satisfactory plants, unless they are damaged by insects. There is another method of testing seeds with water, perhaps true, but applicable only to very large seeds. Seeds are poured into the water, and those of them, near which an almost microscopic air bubble is formed, are recognized as viable.

A way to find out the germination rate of seeds

To achieve this goal, a method is proposed based on the changes that occur with the seeds during combustion. Bad, non-germinating seeds burn slowly, with little smoke development. Germinating seeds bounce, turn over and burn with a crash, which is stronger, the larger the seeds. Small seeds are placed one by one on hot coals; larger ones, such as the seeds of oak, chestnuts, are thrown directly into the fire and carefully observe the phenomena during combustion. With small ones, what is said above happens; the larger ones jump in the fire.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Seeds of many garden and tree species germinate much more successfully if they are properly prepared before sowing. Early sown and soon emerging seeds, such as cabbages, turnips, rutabaga, do not require any pre-treatment before sowing. On the contrary, the germination of slowly germinating seeds - carrots, onions, parsley, celery and others - if they are soaked before sowing, can be accelerated by several days, which in many cases is, of course, an important benefit. To soak the seeds, pure rain or melt water is used, and in the absence of such, soft pond or river water is used. There are observations showing that snow, when melted, works especially well on hard seeds and is therefore successfully used both for soaking and covering seeds sown in pots instead of watering. The amount of water used for soaking should be several times the volume of seeds. If, after more or less prolonged soaking of the seeds, the water turns brown, it should be replaced with fresh water. Soaking is carried out at a temperature corresponding to seed germination. As for the duration of soaking, this is determined by the degree of hardness of the seeds. It is not difficult to find out when they are completely wet by their appearance: their volume increases significantly, the grain softens, which in large flour seeds, such as peas, occurs in half a day. Cruciferous seeds usually require no more than a day; onion - from 2 to 3 days, and rosaceous, like strawberries, raspberries and blackberries - from 3 to 5 days. But the seeds of some plants, such as Turkish beans and semi-tropical plants in general, easily rot from urination, and it is better not to moisten them at all.

Seed stratification

Seeds of fruit trees germinate only if they are sown soon after they are harvested. It would seem that this property is not difficult, it is only necessary to produce timely autumn sowing. In practice, however, there are difficulties, partly because the seeds sown are very often damaged by mice. It is often difficult to have a plot fully prepared for sowing in the fall; also very early frosts and other reasons can interfere with autumn sowing. Thus, it is necessary to postpone sowing until spring, but in order for the seeds to germinate in the spring, they must be stratified. Without this technique, the seeds sown in the spring will lie in the ground for a whole summer, autumn and winter and will sprout only in the spring of the next year, and even then it is unsatisfactory, since many seeds die from a long lying in the ground. Stratification, or sanding, consists in the fact that the seeds intended for spring sowing are stored not in dry form, but in a mixture with wet sand, that is, as if they are subjected to autumn sowing. Seeds can be stratified in two ways: either by distributing them in a box or in a flower pot in layers (a layer of sand, a layer of seeds), or by pre-mixing with three to four times the amount of sand. Stratification should be done as early as possible and, in any case, no later than December. Stratified seeds are preserved while maintaining moderate humidity and at low temperatures (in the basement, front, etc.). The probability of success will be higher if the stratified seeds are subjected to at least a short-term (2–3 days) frost action. Seeds must be sown in the spring before they begin to germinate.

Stratification as a way to accelerate seed germination

The choice of dishes for stratification and its installation depends on local conditions: you can take boxes, baskets, flower pots, etc. It is only necessary that the bottom of the vessel has holes, and below, under a rather thick layer, drainage from cuttings and the like would be placed material. Sand is poured over the drainage in a thick layer, along which large seeds are distributed separately from each other; then, covering them with sand, they put the second row of seeds, then sand again, a new row of seeds, etc., until the entire vessel is filled. The number of layers is determined by the permeability of the material used for pouring and the size of the seeds. The more permeable the material and the larger the seeds, the more layers can be placed on top of each other and the thicker each layer can be. For the largest seeds, the sand should not be thicker than 5 cm; the number of layers is not more than 6, otherwise the main condition may not be achieved - good ventilation. Humidity should be uniform and not very high. The time of stratification depends on the rate of seed germination. The sooner the seed germinates, the later this operation should be started so that the root of the sprout does not lengthen too much by the time of sowing in an open place. The action of stratification can be accelerated by preliminary simultaneous wetting of the seeds, as well as by warming the vessel. It is best to stratify in the cellar. If we mean a significant sowing of hard seeds that should lie in the ground for a long time, then stratification is carried out in lined and covered pits.

An easy way to stratify

Stratification can also be achieved in a more simplified way: it was possible to stratify the seeds of apple trees, mixing them from autumn to 3/4 with black earth, and this mixture was poured into bags sewn from coarse canvas. The sacks were filled so incompletely that they could be well spread out on the ground with a layer of 7–9 cm. The sacks, of course, are sewn up, and spread out on the ground with a small depression in the middle. In the spring, when the snow melts early, the latter pounces on the bags until it is time for sowing. For stratification, you need to choose a place in the shade, where the spring sun does not have a strong effect. The advantage of this method is that the seeds germinate evenly and quickly. When removing germinated seeds from bags, they should be selected carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Seed germination and seedling improvement

Germination of hard-skinned seeds

Hard-skinned seeds, as is known, are characterized by very slow germination, and it is often necessary to resort to artificial measures in order to hasten their germination. The most successfully practiced of these measures is the cutting or sawing of the hard skin. All hard-skinned seeds (acacia, canna, etc.) on the side from which the sprout breaks through, are equipped with a slight elevation; in this particular place, the hard skin is carefully cut or filed until the inner thin layer is exposed, and in this form the seed is planted in the ground with moderate heat; then it germinates in a few days, instead of lying in the ground, untouched for many weeks, as is usually the case with hard-skinned seeds that have not been subjected to the above manipulation.

Method for improving seed germination of forest tree species

A batch of seeds is soaked for 1–3 days in water and then laid out in a thin layer in a shaded place. The spread out seeds are turned over with a rake and watered. When the shell of some seeds bursts, it is possible to start sowing, and in the grooves prepared in the usual way and spaced from one another by 7–9 cm, swollen seeds are placed at a distance of 1 cm for shade-tolerant breeds and 2 cm for light-loving ones. Sowing due to uneven swelling of seeds has to be stretched for several days. Beds on which swollen seeds are sown should certainly be watered before germination. With this method of sowing, it was possible to obtain from hundreds of sown, therefore, germinating seeds, from 82 to 96 one-year-old seedlings. True, the indicated method is troublesome, but it fully pays off with the results, since it gives the maximum number of shoots from the available number of sown seeds, not to mention the fact that such sowing is cheaper than the picks practiced by gardeners. In particular, this method is recommended for the cultivation of seedlings of forest species with poor germination, such as, for example, Siberian larch, the seeds of which are characterized by extremely poor germination and very high cost.

An easy way to speed up seed germination

Seeds of apple or pear trees are placed in a glass filled up to half with water, and kept in this form at ordinary room temperature. When the water begins to deteriorate, which is recognizable by its putrid odor, it is carefully drained and replaced with fresh water. After two weeks, white sprouts will appear. Then, draining the water, the seeds are carefully transferred to the canvas so as not to damage the delicate sprouts and allowed to dry slightly, after which they are immediately sown. Seeds germinate evenly and quickly. When removing germinated seeds from bags, they should be selected carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Germination of hard-skinned seeds, in particular wild rose, acacia

Hard-skinned seeds, as is known, are characterized by very slow germination, and it is often necessary to resort to artificial measures in order to hasten their germination. The most successfully practiced of these measures is the cutting or sawing of the hard skin. All hard-skinned seeds (acacia, canna, etc.) on the side from which the sprout breaks through, are equipped with a slight elevation; in this particular place, the hard skin is carefully cut or filed until the inner thin layer is exposed, and in this form the seed is planted in the ground with moderate heat; then it germinates in a few days, instead of lying in the ground, untouched for many weeks, as is usually the case with hard-skinned seeds that have not been subjected to the above manipulation. There are, however, seeds that are particularly difficult to germinate. So, for example, rosehip seeds lie in the ground for two or three years before they sprout. To speed up germination, the rosehip seeds should be washed with water and those that float to the surface of the water should be discarded. Then the remaining seeds (settled to the bottom) are transferred to a glass vessel with a ground stopper, poured with sulfuric acid, diluted with rain water (17 g of acid and 26 g of water are taken for 400 g of seeds), and the vessel is tightly corked. After 10–12 days, the liquid is drained, the seeds are transferred to a box filled with loose earth or sand, and covered with moss on top, kept in a warm place until sowing time. Sowing is done on a shaded ridge and requires good and accurate watering so that the earth always remains damp. Rosehip seeds prepared in this way, instead of two or three years, germinate in two, less often in three months.

Improved seed germinationInfluence of the position of seeds in the soil on the speed of germination

Pumpkin seeds were placed in some vessels with the germ down, in others - up and in the third - horizontally. The results obtained were such that in the first case, the time of emergence of shoots was greatly extended and the resulting plants developed much more poorly than in the second case. The germination energy of seeds, which occupied a horizontal position, was average in magnitude. In figures, the mentioned difference was as follows: if in the first case (seeds with the Embryo down) on the sixth day 60% of the seeds sprouted, then in the second - 90%.

The influence of copper sulfate and lime on the germination and development of plants

AT last years experiments were made on the effect of soaking grains in a decoction of starch, copper sulfate and lime and the effect of these solutions on the germination and development of plants. Experiments proved that the used solution acted on the grains, on the one hand, in a protective manner, protecting them from fungal diseases, and on the other hand (which was less known until now) caused an exciting effect on the germination, nutrition and development of plants. The solution was made in this way: 3 g of copper sulfate and 30 g of starch were boiled in 1 liter of water. Cereal grains were placed for 20 hours in a completely cooled liquid, then dried in air, after which they were immersed for a short time in milk of lime and again dried in air. The weight of grains from this operation increases by 5%. Experiments were carried out with various varieties of wheat, maize, oats and barley and showed that all these varieties of bread presented a high percentage of germination and gave a greater yield, especially of leaves and stems.

"Pavel Nikolaevich Steinberg Everyday gardener's recipe. golden book gardener, time-tested Everyday recipe ... "

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Pavel Nikolaevich Steinberg

Everyday gardener's recipe. Golden

time-tested gardening book

http://www.litres.ru/pages/biblio_book/?art=419552

Everyday gardener's recipe. The gardener's golden book, time-tested. real

recipes that are already over 100 years old / P.N.Steinberga: AST, Astrel; Moscow; 2010

ISBN 978-5-17-066269-2

annotation

The book that you are now holding in your hands is not losing its popularity already.

over 100 years! Centuries-old traditions of Russian gardening are concentrated on these pages. Compiled by practitioners for practitioners, bringing together best advice and recipes for farming, caring for trees, shrubs, flowers and lawns, this collection has been and remains a storehouse of folk wisdom. Whether you are gardening, growing indoor flowers or planting flower beds, you will definitely find tips here that will help you and your plants. Have a rich harvest and good mood!

Contents Preface 7 Seeds and sowing 9 General measures 9 Quality of seeds 9 Seeds of own collection and purchased 9 Methods for determining the quality of seeds for sowing 9 Checking seeds for germination 10 How to find out the germination of seeds 10 Preparing seeds for sowing 10 Seed stratification 11 Stratification as a way to accelerate germination 11 seeds A simple way to stratify 12 Sprouting seeds and improving seedlings 13 Sprouting hard-skinned seeds 13 A method to improving seedlings of forest seeds 13 tree species An easy way to speed up seed germination 13 Sprouting hard-skinned seeds, in particular 13

–  –  –

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Everyday gardener's recipe.

Time-Tested Gardener's Golden Book Foreword The book you now hold in your hands was very popular in pre-revolutionary Russia, as it was created on the basis of the best achievements in gardening practice.

And for almost a hundred years gardeners all over Russia have been using “everyday recipes”.

The annotation to the book stated:

The purpose of the publication of the Gardener's Everyday Recipe is to provide horticulturalists and, to some extent, industrialists with the opportunity to benefit from the rich experience of well-known practitioners - gardeners and gardeners. To have at hand all the periodical literature, moreover, for several decades, is hardly accessible to an ordinary amateur or industrialist. Meanwhile, in the magazines of previous years, you can find a lot of precious tips and recipes, the application of which in practice will undoubtedly bring significant benefits. This circumstance prompted the editors of the journal Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture

instruct a group of employees to make a selection of more valuable material from horticultural magazines for previous years, group this material into departments and study it in relation to the latest requirements of science and practice, trying to cover all branches of horticulture and horticulture as far as possible.

Due to the fact that the employees of the "Gardener's Everyday Recipe"

Mostly gardeners-practitioners came, it can be hoped that only really practical and useful tips and recipes got into the publication.

The editor of the Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture magazine P.N.

Steinberg.

St. Petersburg, 1911

It should be noted that in compiling this book, materials from Russian and foreign publications on agriculture, horticulture and horticulture were used.

In particular, popular publications known at that time:

"Everyday recipe" by Mr. Elpe. Under the pseudonym Elpe, the well-known scientist and educator Lazar Konstantinovich Popov published his popular books and articles;

"Just in case" by Mr. A. N. Almedingen. The journalist and educator Aleksey Nikolaevich Almedingen (1855–1908) published a huge number of popular publications for different people, from rural residents to zemstvo chiefs. His most famous book is Encyclopedia of Family Education and Training;

“Collection of Russian Literature on Gardening Techniques”, published by the Imperial Russian Horticultural Society, edited by I. I. Meshchersky. This book was published in 1900, and for a long time remained one of the most popular gardening books.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

And many other publications.

Unfortunately, in the original edition, all the recipes were not properly structured, and readers had to look for the information they needed by repeatedly turning the pages of the book. In preparing this edition, we have streamlined the structure of the text, keeping the tips and recipes offered in the original edition unchanged.

We hope that modern readers will find in this book a lot of useful and interesting things for themselves. For almost a hundred years, with the help of the recommendations of the authors of this book, hundreds of thousands of people have grown excellent gardens and orchards, increased the fertility of trees and shrubs, and successfully protected their crops from any natural adversity, whether it be temperature drops, hail, drought, floods, or harmful insects and animals. . Whether you are gardening, growing indoor flowers or planting flower beds, you will definitely find tips here that will help you and your plants. Have a rich harvest and good mood!

Tatiana Poloz, PhD, February 2010

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

–  –  –

Home-collected and purchased seeds Home-collected seeds will certainly give better results than purchased seeds, if they are collected with skill and attention. Mass production of seeds can never provide such care for seed plants as in your own farm. As an exception, one should point to seeds, the production of which is associated with the installation of any devices that are inaccessible to ordinary farming. In all other cases, one can warmly recommend growing seeds at home, if local climatic conditions make this activity possible. There is still a lot to argue about the degeneration of plants with constant cultivation of seeds on a given farm. If the plants have come to terms with the climatic and soil conditions, and in the first years of cultivation in a new place have not shown a tendency to degenerate, then there will be no degeneration in the future if we take full care of the matter. Only some plants (very few) from the first year of cultivation from the seeds of their collection give a significant percentage of specimens that deviate from the type. Such seeds will have to be ordered, but at the same time, careful selection should try to acclimatize them. The properties of plants reproduced by seeds are erased only in distant generations, and even then as a result of bad, inattentive care. We do not have the means to prevent degeneration, which depends on the characteristics of the climate, but this circumstance becomes clear in the first years of culture.

Degeneracy is observed in the following cases:

If a plant peculiar exclusively to the south is cultivated for seed in the north, and vice versa;

Plants that cannot tolerate clay, calcareous or other soils fall on these soils.

If, however, plants of outstanding quality, and typical ones, are obtained from the seeds of one's own collection, nothing prevents them from preserving them and improving them by careful selection of seeds.

Methods for determining the quality factor of sowing seeds Such methods include a germination test - a certain number of seeds are taken from a sample and sown in bowls or pots placed in a warm place. Then, according to the number of germinated seeds, a conclusion is made about the percentage of their germination, and therefore, about the degree of quality factor of the test sample. If the seeds are very small, for the same purpose they are placed between two cloths or felts moistened with water and notice how many of them will sprout. Noteworthy is the method recommended by Dijon as quite suitable for guidance. The seeds to be determined are placed on hot coals, even better - on a hot iron sheet: if the seeds simply char, that is, they burn quietly, without swelling and crackling, then they are worthless and lack the ability of P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

germination. Seeds suitable for germination under the same conditions swell and burn with a bang, bouncing. To determine the quality factor of large seeds (acorns, chestnuts, etc.), they are thrown directly into a burning stove: the bad ones burn without noise, like paper; the good ones burst with a more or less strong crack, as they say, "shoot".

Checking Seeds for Germination Even the freshest seeds should be checked for germination because it can depend on many factors. Seeds are especially carefully checked after an unsuccessful summer or during machine cleaning, where a certain percentage is invariably subjected to mechanical damage. In addition to the proven methods for determining germination, there are many signs by which the suitability of seed grain is judged. First of all, pay attention to the comparative size of the seeds, their color and shine. These features can serve as a basis for seed evaluation only if the collection conditions are well known: in wet and dry summers, the appearance of the seeds of some plants is significantly different. The color of the seeds can be especially deceptive. For example, the opinion is firmly established that dark clover seeds are better than light ones, while careful observations show the opposite: light seeds give more seeds and more hay. It is impossible to agree with the opinion that the best seeds should sink in water, while the seeds remaining on the surface of the water are not germinating. Dozens of times I tested the ability of seeds to germinate in the ways indicated and positively convinced that this method is no good: the seeds that remain on the surface germinate perfectly and give quite satisfactory plants, unless they are damaged by insects. There is another method of testing seeds with water, perhaps true, but applicable only to very large seeds. Seeds are poured into the water, and those of them, near which an almost microscopic air bubble is formed, are recognized as viable.

A way to know the germination rate of seeds To achieve this goal, a method is proposed based on the changes that occur with seeds during combustion. Bad, non-germinating seeds burn slowly, with little smoke development. Germinating seeds bounce, turn over and burn with a crash, which is stronger, the larger the seeds. Small seeds are placed one by one on hot coals; larger ones, such as the seeds of oak, chestnuts, are thrown directly into the fire and carefully observe the phenomena during combustion. With small ones, what is said above happens; the larger ones jump in the fire.

Preparing seeds for sowing Seeds of many garden and tree species germinate much more successfully if they are properly prepared before sowing. Early sown and soon emerging seeds, such as cabbages, turnips, rutabaga, do not require any pre-treatment before sowing. On the contrary, the germination of slowly germinating seeds - carrots, onions, parsley, celery and others - if they are soaked before sowing, can be accelerated by several days, which in many cases is, of course, an important benefit. To soak the seeds, pure rain or melt water is used, and in the absence of such

- soft pond or river. There are observations showing that snow, when melted, works especially well on hard seeds and is therefore successfully used both for soaking and covering seeds sown in pots instead of watering. The amount of water used for soaking should be several times greater than the volume of P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

seeds. If, after more or less prolonged soaking of the seeds, the water turns brown, it should be replaced with fresh water. Soaking is carried out at a temperature corresponding to seed germination. As for the duration of soaking, this is determined by the degree of hardness of the seeds. It is not difficult to find out when they are completely wet by their appearance: their volume increases significantly, the grain softens, which in large flour seeds, such as peas, occurs in half a day. Cruciferous seeds usually require no more than a day; onion - from 2 to 3 days, and rosaceous, like strawberries, raspberries and blackberries - from 3 to 5 days. But the seeds of some plants, such as Turkish beans and semi-tropical plants in general, easily rot from urination, and it is better not to moisten them at all.

Seed Stratification Seeds of fruit trees germinate only if sown shortly after they are harvested. It would seem that this property is not difficult, it is only necessary to produce timely autumn sowing. In practice, however, there are difficulties, partly because the seeds sown are very often damaged by mice. It is often difficult to have a plot fully prepared for sowing in the fall; also very early frosts and other reasons can interfere with autumn sowing.

Thus, it is necessary to postpone sowing until spring, but in order for the seeds to germinate in the spring, they must be stratified. Without this technique, the seeds sown in the spring will lie in the ground for a whole summer, autumn and winter and will sprout only in the spring of the next year, and even then it is unsatisfactory, since many seeds die from a long lying in the ground. Stratification, or sanding, consists in the fact that the seeds intended for spring sowing are stored not in dry form, but in a mixture with wet sand, that is, as if they are subjected to autumn sowing. Seeds can be stratified in two ways: either by distributing them in a box or in a flower pot in layers (a layer of sand, a layer of seeds), or by pre-mixing with three to four times the amount of sand. Stratification should be done as early as possible and, in any case, no later than December. Stratified seeds are preserved while maintaining moderate humidity and at low temperatures (in the basement, front, etc.). The probability of success will be higher if the stratified seeds are subjected to at least a short-term (2–3 days) frost action. Seeds must be sown in the spring before they begin to germinate.

Stratification as a way to accelerate seed germination The choice of dishes for stratification and its installation depends on local conditions: you can take boxes, baskets, flower pots, etc. It is only necessary that the bottom of the vessel has holes, and below, under a fairly thick layer, would be placed drainage from cuttings and the like. Sand is poured over the drainage in a thick layer, along which large seeds are distributed separately from each other; then, covering them with sand, they put the second row of seeds, then sand again, a new row of seeds, etc., until the entire vessel is filled. The number of layers is determined by the permeability of the material used for pouring and the size of the seeds. The more permeable the material and the larger the seeds, the more layers can be placed on top of each other and the thicker each layer can be. For the largest seeds, the sand should not be thicker than 5 cm; the number of layers is not more than 6, otherwise the main condition may not be achieved - good ventilation. Humidity should be uniform and not very high. The time of stratification depends on the rate of seed germination.

The sooner the seed germinates, the later this operation should be started so that the root of the sprout does not lengthen too much by the time of sowing in an open place. Action strap. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

tification can be accelerated by preliminary simultaneous wetting of the seeds, as well as by warming the vessel. It is best to stratify in the cellar. If we mean a significant sowing of hard seeds that should lie in the ground for a long time, then stratification is carried out in lined and covered pits.

A simple method of stratification Stratification can also be achieved in a more simplified way: it was possible to stratify the seeds of apple trees, mixing them from autumn to 3/4 with black earth, and this mixture was poured into bags sewn from coarse canvas. The bags were filled so incompletely that they could be well spread on the ground with a layer of 7–9 cm.

The bags, of course, are sewn up, and spread out on the ground with a small depression in the middle. In the spring, when the snow melts early, the latter pounces on the bags until it is time for sowing. For stratification, you need to choose a place in the shade, where the spring sun does not have a strong effect. The advantage of this method is that the seeds germinate evenly and quickly. When removing germinated seeds from bags, they should be selected carefully so as not to damage the roots.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Germinating Seeds and Improving Seedlings Germinating Hard-skinned Seeds Hard-skinned seeds are notoriously slow to germinate, and it is not uncommon to have to resort to artificial measures to speed up their germination. The most successfully practiced of these measures is the cutting or sawing of the hard skin. All hard-skinned seeds (acacia, canna, etc.) on the side from which the sprout breaks through, are equipped with a slight elevation; in this particular place, the hard skin is carefully cut or filed until the inner thin layer is exposed, and in this form the seed is planted in the ground with moderate heat; then it germinates in a few days, instead of lying in the ground, untouched for many weeks, as is usually the case with hard-skinned seeds that have not been subjected to the above manipulation.

Method for improving seed germination of forest tree species A batch of seeds is soaked for 1–3 days in water and then laid out in a thin layer in a shaded place. The spread out seeds are turned over with a rake and watered. When the shell of some seeds bursts, it is possible to start sowing, and in the grooves prepared in the usual way and spaced from one another by 7–9 cm, swollen seeds are placed at a distance of 1 cm for shade-tolerant breeds and 2 cm for light-loving ones. Sowing due to uneven swelling of seeds has to be stretched for several days. Beds on which swollen seeds are sown should certainly be watered before germination. With this method of sowing, it was possible to obtain from hundreds of sown, therefore, germinating seeds, from 82 to 96 one-year-old seedlings. True, the indicated method is troublesome, but it fully pays off with the results, since it gives the maximum number of shoots from the available number of sown seeds, not to mention the fact that such sowing is cheaper than the picks practiced by gardeners. In particular, this method is recommended for the cultivation of seedlings of forest species with poor germination, such as, for example, Siberian larch, the seeds of which are characterized by extremely poor germination and very high cost.

A simple way to speed up the germination of seeds Seeds of apple or pear trees are placed in a glass filled up to half with water, and kept in this form at ordinary room temperature. When the water begins to deteriorate, which is recognizable by its putrid odor, it is carefully drained and replaced with fresh water. After two weeks, white sprouts will appear. Then, draining the water, the seeds are carefully transferred to the canvas so as not to damage the delicate sprouts and allowed to dry slightly, after which they are immediately sown. Seeds germinate evenly and quickly. When removing germinated seeds from bags, they should be selected carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Germination of Hard-Skinned Seeds, Particularly Rose Hips, Acacia Hard-skinned seeds are known to be very slow to germinate, and it is not uncommon to have to resort to artificial measures to speed up their germination. The most successfully practiced of such measures is the cutting or sawing of hard P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

skins. All hard-skinned seeds (acacia, canna, etc.) on the side from which the sprout breaks through, are equipped with a slight elevation; in this particular place, the hard skin is carefully cut or filed until the inner thin layer is exposed, and in this form the seed is planted in the ground with moderate heat; then it germinates in a few days, instead of lying in the ground, untouched for many weeks, as is usually the case with hard-skinned seeds that have not been subjected to the above manipulation. There are, however, seeds that are particularly difficult to germinate. So, for example, rosehip seeds lie in the ground for two or three years before they sprout. To speed up germination, the rosehip seeds should be washed with water and those that float to the surface of the water should be discarded. Then the remaining seeds (settled to the bottom) are transferred to a glass vessel with a ground stopper, poured with sulfuric acid, diluted with rain water (17 g of acid and 26 g of water are taken for 400 g of seeds), and the vessel is tightly corked. After 10–12 days, the liquid is drained, the seeds are transferred to a box filled with loose earth or sand, and covered with moss on top, kept in a warm place until sowing time. Sowing is done on a shaded ridge and requires good and accurate watering so that the earth always remains damp. Rosehip seeds prepared in this way, instead of two or three years, germinate in two, less often in three months.

Improved seed germination

Influence of the position of seeds in the soil on the speed of emergence of seedlings Pumpkin seeds were placed in some containers with the germ down, in others - up and in the third - horizontally. The results obtained were such that in the first case, the time of emergence of shoots was greatly extended and the resulting plants developed much more poorly than in the second case. The germination energy of seeds, which occupied a horizontal position, was average in magnitude. In figures, the mentioned difference was as follows: if in the first case (seeds with the Embryo down) on the sixth day 60% of the seeds sprouted, then in the second

Influence of copper sulfate and lime on plant germination and development In recent years, experiments have been made on the effect of soaking grains in a decoction of starch, copper sulfate and lime and the effect of these solutions on plant germination and development. Experiments proved that the used solution acted on the grains, on the one hand, in a protective manner, protecting them from fungal diseases, and on the other hand (which was less known until now) caused an exciting effect on the germination, nutrition and development of plants. The solution was made in this way: 3 g of copper sulfate and 30 g of starch were boiled in 1 liter of water. Cereal grains were placed for 20 hours in a completely cooled liquid, then dried in air, after which they were immersed for a short time in milk of lime and again dried in air. The weight of grains from this operation increases by 5%. Experiments were carried out with various varieties of wheat, maize, oats and barley and showed that all these varieties of bread presented a high percentage of germination and gave a greater yield, especially of leaves and stems.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Sprouting aids Of the recommended sprouting aids, only camphor, glycerin and hydrogen peroxide are suitable. Camphor first dissolves in alcohol and then in water in the amount of 5 g per 1 liter of water; other substances are mixed directly with water in the same proportion. Camphor acts very successfully on some plants, while its effect is completely imperceptible on others. It is especially good for enhancing the vegetative ability in old, stale seeds. It also works the same chlorine water: take chlorine in the pharmacy in the form of a saturated solution and pour 10-12 drops into a glass of water to soak the seeds.

Germination of seeds and sowing in the snow Seeds are prepared for sowing by soaking, but the seeds are easily overexposed in water, as a result of which the seedlings will develop poorly, because the water extracts nutrients from the seeds.

It is preferable to germinate seeds in sand or sawdust: the seeds are tied in bags and placed in boxes with wet sand or sawdust. Keep them warm. It is better to take sawdust: they do not cool down so quickly. Sprouting can be stopped at any moment. For example, if cold weather comes and it is impossible to sow, then the seeds are taken out to a cool place, where several days can remain without harm. Soaked seeds would rot under such conditions. Seeds with especially hard shells, like cannas, are prepared as follows: they cool the seeds on ice and, bringing them into the room, quickly pour them onto a plate and pour boiling water over them: the shell bursts and the seeds germinate in 5–7 days;

without preparation, they would have lain for more than a year. Instead, the seeds can be filed with files until the protein appears. Cleanthus seeds germinate only with this method. Watering the sown seeds with snow water also contributes to their speedy germination. Sowing in the snow works great. Sow seeds in bowls where snow is poured on the surface of the earth. When the snow melts, put another layer of snow. At the same time, it is useful to freeze the seeds of more hardy plants: in the morning, sow in the snow and, when it melts, take it out into the cold. Repeat the next day.

Saving seeds

Seed Preservation Methods The same seeds stored in cool, dry rooms or in hot rooms, especially near ovens, give different percentages of germination. Too dry, hot air is the first reason that even good seeds give poor shoots. The best way to store seeds is in a dry, well-ventilated room at 6-8°C; seeds are either scattered in bags and hung on the walls, or in cardboard boxes if they save a small amount. The seeds are shaken from time to time to make them mix; at the same time, the air in bags or boxes is also refreshed. I have seen that the seeds are preserved in the cold, in cold rooms.

Indeed, frost does not harm seeds in the same way as tender plants, that is, it does not kill them quickly, but there is no doubt that with this method of storage, the ability to germinate decreases: frost dries the seeds, deprives them of the necessary amount of moisture. A few days of frost will not harm them, but in no case should they be saved in the cold throughout the winter.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Preservation for the winter of stone seeds for spring sowing Freshly harvested stones should be immediately stratified, that is, layered with sand. If there are few seeds, then they are stratified in pots, which are then buried in pits. If they want to save a large number of seeds, then they use baskets or simply holes in the ground. In both cases, an elevated place is chosen to store the seeds, where water would not linger. Pots or baskets with seeds interspersed with sand are buried to a depth of 70 cm so that the seeds cannot freeze for the winter. In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws, they dig out the seeds, which usually germinate by this time, and immediately sow them to a depth of 4.5 cm in prepared ridges with transverse grooves.

The distance between the last ones is 22–23 cm, and the seeds are planted from each other at a distance of 4.5 cm, after which they are covered with ridge soil, if it is light, and if it is heavy, clayey, then with compost. Then, if the soil is dry, abundant watering is carried out and the ridges are shaded from above with a mat or simply brushwood, which is removed with the emergence of seedlings, and then it remains only to monitor the cleanliness of the ridges so that weeds do not drown out young plants.

Storage and stratification of seeds At the Petrovichi School of Horticulture, of all the methods used, the following proved to be the best: until February, the seeds are stored in sacks suspended from the ceiling in a cold building. In early February, the bags are removed and the seeds are mixed with the ground: 1 part of the earth to 2 parts of the seeds. The composition of the earth: 1 part (by volume) of completely rotted manure from greenhouses, 1 part of sand and 1 part of greenhouse or sod land. Decayed manure can be replaced with greasy earth (but not clay). A mixture of seeds and earth is poured into bags, filling only 2/3 of the bag, and sewn up tightly. In a fenced clay place, having leveled and trampled down the snow, they spread the bags so that the mixture lies in an even layer, not thicker than 6 cm. then again covered with snow. If the seeds are very swollen, but it is still impossible to sow, then the bags are brought into the glacier.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

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How to improve heavy clay soil?

To improve clay soil, so heavy that it makes it difficult to dig, sticking to a shovel, it is recommended to add crushed brick. Finely crushed brick is sifted through a large sieve, scattered on the ground with a layer of 9–13 cm, and then, together with fertilizer, is applied to the soil. By repeating this operation for several years in a row, it is possible to improve the soil beyond recognition, and the results are the better, the deeper the digging is done. Brick, crushed or powdered, can, of course, be easily obtained if there are brick factories nearby. In the absence of a brick, it is possible to replace it by burning various weeds and earthy substances: for this, a fire is laid out of brushwood, lit, and then weeds with roots and earth adhering to them, any vegetable waste: spoiled straw, turf, etc., are thrown on it, and all the time they keep the fire so that it smolders inside the fire.

When a sufficient amount of ash substances with burnt earth is obtained in this way, it is used instead of crushed brick. You can get even better results if you have peat on hand for burning. It is used in the same way as crushed brick.

The benefits of hoeing the soil Do not mix hoeing with digging the soil.

It is possible to dig only at a time when the soil is not occupied by plants, but to hoe - during the whole time until the sown or planted plants have yet completely occupied the ridges. Digging is the loosening of the soil on a relatively great depth(from 18 to 22, even 26 cm); hoeing - loosening the soil by 4–7 cm, and sometimes even less. Hoeing is extremely useful for the successful development of plants: it facilitates the access of air to the roots, without which the correct growth of the aerial parts of the plant is completely impossible. Especially on clay soils, after heavy rains, a crust forms on the surface of the soil, and the access of air to the roots is completely stopped; if this crust is not broken by hoeing, the growth of plants will stop significantly.

Dignity of hardwood When caring for houseplants, hardwood lovers often underestimate. The best is the land of beech and oak forests; the land from mixed plantations is also good. Deciduous land (cover) taken from the forest must be properly prepared. For this purpose, it is piled in heaps, which are kept moist in dry weather, and shoveled at least once in winter. After 1.5–2 years, the earth from the heaps can already be used, and for plants that love coarse mixtures, it can be taken even after one year. Pure deciduous land P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

it is very useful to mix in the culture of azaleas, camellias, heathers, ferns and other plants. A mixture of hardwood and compost soil is highly recommended for many herbaceous plants. When cultivating woody plants, weathered loam must be added to this mixture. An abundant admixture of hardwood in some cases makes it possible to do without the addition of sand, which is also not always easy to get.

What should be done to improve saline soils in gardens?

It is known that the highest percentage of salt is contained in the subsoil layers. In the upper layers, if there is a percentage of salt, then in most cases it is very insignificant, which makes it possible to cultivate many plants that do not take roots far into the depths. But with inept handling of soils with solonetsous subsoil, they can be brought to the level of pure solonchaks, on which nothing will grow. The fact is that salt, as you know, is easily soluble in water. When we irrigate, when it rains or snow melts, the water, seeping from the upper layers of the soil to the lower layers, carries with it the salt in the soil to the lower layers of the earth, or, as scientists say, the salt is leached.

With the onset of drought, water from the lower layers of the soil rises through capillary vessels to the upper ones, from where, under the influence of great heat, it evaporates into the air. Rising from the lower layers, it also raises the salt dissolved in it. Salt, like water, cannot evaporate into the air, and it cannot go down without water either, and the longer the period of droughts and the more salt in the subsoil water, the more and more it accumulates in the upper, once fertile layer. Thus, soil salinization occurs. In order to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to prevent the reverse rise of water in such places. This is achieved by shading the soil with a living or dead cover. With large crops, such as garden plantations, large, even undecomposed manure or sowing of forage grasses can be successfully used. With small crops - small humus. It is better to water the plot once or twice during a drought and, in order to avoid the detrimental effect of the accumulation of underground waters, make sewers in low places of the plot, which, although associated with unnecessary costs, makes it possible to radically change the fertility of the plot, and not only avoid its salinization .

Drainage Benefits

Drainage removes water harmful to plants, lowers the level of groundwater.

Drainage improves soil fertility.

Drained soil is more accessible for spring work.

Drainage increases the growing season.

Drained soil is easier to work - cheaper.

Drained soils respond better to mineral fertilizers.

How should the soil be sifted?

When arranging flowerbeds, the earth should not be sifted: when the sifted earth subsequently settles, it is so compacted that the access of air to the roots of plants is too difficult, and the plants slow down their development or completely stop growing. However, sometimes it is necessary to sift the ground containing too many stones, rubble, chips, etc. For this, a wooden frame is arranged about 2 m high and 1 m wide; the bottom of this frame is boarded up with boards to a height of 70 cm, while the rest of the frame space is covered with wire mesh, the cells of which must be at least 0.6–2.5 cm.

A finer mesh is not suitable for sifting the earth. This grid is installed at an angle P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

50° and fixed in place. A wheelbarrow is attached close to the net from its outer side. The sides of the wheelbarrow are beveled so that it can be moved close to the part of the frame boarded up with boards. With a shovel, the worker throws the sieved earth onto the net, and the smaller parts fall through the net, while stones, roots, etc. remain on the outer side of the net and fall into the wheelbarrow. Thus, the screenings do not have to be piled a second time into the wheelbarrow: they immediately fall into it and can be immediately taken away.

Soil maintenance in a spring garden The best results are obtained if the soil is kept under black fallow, but not everyone dares to leave such an amount of land unused and therefore loosen only strips of approximately 2–2.5 m, the center of which is occupied by fruit trees; the rest of the earth is left under the grass. Meanwhile, there is nothing more harmful to the orchard than the cultivation of herbs. This is especially true in areas with a dry climate, where the gardener must take all measures to keep fruit trees as much moisture as possible. In this regard, the harm of herbs is undeniable: they draw a lot of juices from the soil, dry it. In addition, caring for a garden, the soil of which is running under the grass, is much more complicated. Weed seeds are constantly carried by the wind onto loosened strips, insects find excellent shelter in thick grass, etc. If the crowns of individual trees have not yet come close, it is more profitable to occupy free strips of land with some root crops (beets, for example, work great even in shading ), potatoes. In this case, provided that the necessary quantities of fertilizer are applied, a double benefit is obtained: firstly, the harvest of root crops, and secondly, the soil is kept completely clean.

Land for indoor plants

Land for planting indoor plants The best soil for planting tender indoor plants should be light, not heavy soil.

The latter is less permeable to heat, absorbs a lot of water, and at the same time represents a significant obstacle for the tender embryo to reach the surface. The best lands are deciduous, heather and coniferous. These lands are used carefully sifted with an addition of 1/4 or 1/3 of good sand. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that rotting particles do not get into the sifted earth. Peat land also turns out to be good land due to its porosity, friability and some fibrous, representing excellent foundation for a strong strengthening of the roots of sprouted plants, which are often easily washed out with water on loose lands during careless watering. When filling the pots with earth, the latter is somewhat compacted and falls short of 3-6 cm from the edges of the pot. Seeds that are difficult to germinate are best pre-soaked in warm water for 3-5 days. Too dense planting should be considered harmful, especially small seeds. Seeds should not be planted deep, but they should not be planted too superficially. In the first case, the germinated embryo can easily be spoiled in the ground, and in the second case, exposed roots cease to function properly under the influence of light and open air. The larger the seeds, the deeper they are embedded, and vice versa. It is better that the thickness of the layer on top of the seeds matches the size of the seed itself. The looser the earth, the more the surface layer should be compacted. Only very small seeds, which are best sown by carefully mixing with carefully ground earth, are not covered with earth.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Drainage arrangement in flower pots Seedlings of earth, with the exception of large stones and chips, should not be thrown away: they provide excellent drainage in flower pots for planting. Usually, the lower layers of the earth in a pot, under the influence of constant watering, quickly become compacted, almost do not let water through, and the plants suffer from a clod that does not dry out. A completely different result is obtained with a rational drainage device: the drain hole expands somewhat and is laid with a shard. A layer of grains is poured onto the shard, the thickness of which depends on the diameter of the pot, that is, the larger the pot, the thicker the layer of grains. Earth is already poured on these seedings and a plant is planted. Water during irrigation, having saturated the upper layers, tends downward and, of course, quickly flows through the layer of seedings. In the course of time the particles of earth are carried away with the water and fill up the gaps between the sowings, and the water is somewhat delayed, but this does not happen until the time when a new transplant becomes necessary, and therefore the matter can again be corrected in the same way.

How to improve acidic soil in flower pots?

For this purpose, take half a teaspoon of Acidi phosphoric diluti and half a teaspoon of Acidi nitrici diliti and dissolve in 1/4 bucket of water. This solution is poured over the earth in pots so that the water comes out on the saucers. After one or two waterings, the earth in flowerpots stops emitting a nasty smell and improves significantly. In the spring, when transplanting potted plants, they take the plant out of the pot, clean its roots from the outer layer of the earth, put it temporarily in another flowerpot and wash off the clod of earth remaining on the roots with warm water (50–56 ° C). Rinsing with warm water is continued until the water flowing onto the saucer is completely clean. After this operation, the plant is transplanted into a new pot.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

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How to apply fertilizer?

The biggest mistake is made by those who fertilize too deeply into the soil. The more superficially the fertilizer is applied, the better, the faster and more accurate its action. The best thing is to dig in fertilizer to the depth of one shovel. If the fertilizer is applied to the soil at a depth of 40 to 50 cm or more, as is unfortunately very often done when planting trees, then oxygen does not have sufficient access, and therefore the fertilizer cannot properly decompose and produce the proper effect on the tree. .

Practice has often proved to us that a fertilizer applied too deeply, after a few years, was found in the soil in the same form as when it was applied to the soil, and, consequently, absolutely no benefit came from it.

Surface Fertilization When cultivating cabbages, strawberries and other plants, even when using fertilizer, it is difficult to obtain outstanding results in dry areas. It is best to use humus from greenhouses or completely decomposed manure for this purpose, because fresh manure contains a lot of weed seeds and insects easily start up. Under the cover of humus, moisture is preserved in the ridges, in addition, rains and water during irrigation wash out all the nutritious juices from the humus into the soil, thus, in one step, both fertilizer and moistening of the ridges are achieved. Putting humus should be a layer of about 5 cm thick, and the plants themselves should not touch the manure, otherwise they may rot. When fertilizing strawberries, you should be especially careful to ensure that manure does not get into the core of the bush.

Instead of humus, other substances are often used, such as chopped straw, chaff, moss, sawdust, etc. When they are buried in the soil, straw and the other materials listed here can also serve as fertilizer, but they rot too slowly and , compared with humus, are too poor in nutrients. On calcareous and sandy soils that are too light in color, covering the ridges with humus is necessary to change their color so that the heating of the soil occurs more evenly. On dense clayey and light sandy soils, crushed peat can be used with complete success for surface fertilization. In autumn, peat, which has served and completely weathered, is dug into the soil when hoeing and in the first case loosens dense, heavy soil, and in the second it makes light, sandy soil more coherent.

Manure What is the best way to fertilize with manure?

The time of removal of manure and its incorporation has great importance. The harvest of rye directly depends on when the manure is taken out into the field and when it is closed up. Manure, taken out in winter and left to lie in the field in cart heaps until the summer plowing, turned out to be the least capable of raising the rye crop. The growth of rye in this case turned out to be small - by 350 kg in grain against the control plot without fertilization. Manure taken out later, in spring, and left to lie in cart heaps for 1.5 months before plowing, already gives a large increase in yield, almost twice - 670 kg. But the astonishing increase in the yield of semi-P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

chayutsya with the immediate plowing of manure. In this case, the increase per 1 ha reaches 15 centners of grain.

Ways to preserve manure Good quality manure is obtained where it is stored in stalls under cattle, trampled down daily, covered with a new layer of straw. During the daily removal of manure, it is accumulated in large manure storages, where it must be transferred for better preservation with peat or earth. It is also useful in cases of daily removal of manure to add to the bedding or put into the gutters of the stables for each head of livestock about 1.5 kg of peat, which, on the one hand, achieves air purification, and on the other hand, preserves slurry containing the main nutrients substances for plants. When manure is covered and interbedded with earth and peat, almost all nitrogen is retained.

Manure, when preserved in this way, usually acts strongly and quickly. Re-layering of manure with earth is done every 60–90 cm, and a layer of earth of 7–9 cm is superimposed. The richer in humus the earth, the better. A layer of manure of 60-90 cm is again superimposed on this earth, which is again covered in the same way with earth. Manure is always trampled down. The bottom of the manure storage is usually laid out with straw, a layer of 60 cm thick.

The straw must be trampled down. The manure storage itself is usually chosen at a high place so that side waters do not flow into it. The water flowing out of the manure storage - slurry - must be collected in special tanks, and the same slurry must be watered from above with manure. Manure heaps should not be made higher than 2.5 m, because the lower layers of manure are too compacted and heated.

Summer hauling and incorporation of manure During the summer hauling of manure, the manure is always piled into small heaps, broken up and plowed as soon as possible. Breaking heaps into cells to remove a uniform amount of manure per 1 ha is a very useful measure, especially since the work of making cells is inexpensive. The incorporation of manure should be the finer the heavier the soil. The decomposition of manure is accelerated if, on the fifth or sixth day after plowing, it is again plowed to the surface and mixed well with the soil using a harrow. If the manure was initially plowed up to 1 m and subsequent sowing plowing was carried out to 1.5 m, then after it the manure lies 0.5 m from the surface - in the most favorable position for the subsequent plant. Only on the lightest soils can one allow a deep plowing of manure at one time so that it no longer disturbs it. In most cases, it is also advantageous to roll the soil with a heavy roller after plowing the manure, since in this case the manure is pressed down to the ground, which ensures its uniform decomposition and causes the rapid germination of weeds that must be destroyed by harrowing. With strawy and large manure, embedding it directly with plows is usually difficult, a lot of manure remains on the surface of the field, therefore it is useful to put a worker with a rake in front of the plow, with which a little manure is taken from the unplowed side and dumped into an empty furrow. The plow, making an adjacent furrow, closes the manure folded into the furrow with raised earth.

Arrangement and maintenance of manure storages The manure storage should be arranged near the cattle yard in a place convenient for travel. It is better if the place is closed by trees or buildings, and not in the sun. Its value should be calculated depending on the number of livestock. On P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

each head of cattle (weighing 400–500 kg) is enough from 3 to 4 m. The land under the manure storage should be taken out, depending on its area, to a depth of 7–10 m, it is better to give the shape of the manure storage in the form of a rectangle with rounded corners.

There should be an impermeable layer under the manure storage, but if there is none, then it must be created from impenetrable clay, applying it with a thickness of 9 to 18 cm. It is good to make a concrete floor, but expensive. The slope of the floor should be as small as possible and at most - it is 1.5 cm per 1 m. Around it is necessary to arrange a ditch or gutter (preferably made of stone) so that water does not flow into it. A platform with entry and exit is arranged above the manure storage. A well for slurry is also arranged near the manure storage, the capacity of which is determined by assuming 6 m3 for every 10 heads of cattle. The floor of the well should be no more than 1.5 m below the floor of the pus. The walls and floor of the well must be impenetrable. The well is covered on top very carefully with boards and is supplied with a pump for pumping out liquid.

Planting manure storages with trees It is impossible to leave manure storages under the scorching rays of the sun, because the manure decomposes too quickly, burns out and loses many valuable parts. To avoid this, it is recommended to plant manure storages with trees that give a lot of shade.

For this purpose, silver poplar and common black poplar, or black poplar, are especially suitable, like trees that easily endure the proximity of manure, spread their branches widely, leaf out early and grow quickly. Silver poplar does not bloom very early, but the proximity of decaying manure does not affect it at all. If the manure storage is lined with bricks or has cemented walls, then the trees should be planted, stepping back from the walls by about 2 m. The planting, in addition, should be carried out in such a way as not to impede free passage to the pus.

bone fertilizer

Harvesting of bone fertilizer Coarsely crushed bones are placed in a water-impervious reservoir and sprinkled with slaked lime. The mixture is poured with a solution of potash and occasionally wetted with water, and after 2–3 weeks it is shifted so that the bones lying at the top lie down. After another 2-3 weeks, a soft, curd-like mass is obtained. For 200 kg of bones, take 32 kg of slaked lime and 16 kg of potash dissolved in 20 buckets of water. Instead of potash, you can take the ashes of plants with the appropriate content of carbonic alkalis. It is believed that birch ash should be taken in an amount equal in weight to the mass of bones, and buckwheat

- 75% of the last.

Another way to prepare bone fertilizer Another way to grind bones is to burn them in furnaces or heaps. In an ordinary oven, when it flares up, they begin to put dry bones, which then burn perfectly. All the resulting mass of ash and bone char can be used for fertilizer. The digestibility and solubility of phosphoric acid in ash is much less than in unbaked bone. As a phosphate, slowly acting and only gradually absorbed over the years, bone fertilizer is mainly suitable for planting fruit trees, under their roots, at the bottom of the pit, where the phosphate introduced in this way will deliver phosphoric acid to the plant. The average composition of the bones is as follows: calcium phosphate - 58–62%, P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

magnesium phosphate - 1-2%, calcium carbonate - 6-7%, calcium fluoride - 2%, organic matter- 26-30%, nitrogen in it - 4-5%. The organic part of the bones consists of osein (glue-giving substance, with 18% nitrogen) and fat (it is what delays the decomposition of raw, untreated bones in the soil).

And more about harvesting bone fertilizer In order to be able to use bone fertilizer in the spring, it must be harvested in advance, 4–5 months in advance. First, the so-called bone fraction is prepared, that is, the bones are broken into pieces of 2 or 4 cm in size; then they are boiled in boilers, after which a layer of ash 15 cm thick is poured into the tub, on top - a layer of bones of the same thickness;

they are covered with ashes 15 cm thick, then again a layer of bones, ashes, etc., until the tub is full. The topmost layer of ash. In this form, the tub is left for the winter. By spring, the bones are scattered and crushed into a fine powder. To prepare bone fertilizer in large quantities, they do this: they dig a hole and fill it successively with layers of 15–20 cm thick with ash, bone shot, a mixture of sawdust, manure and kitchen waste; then again a layer of ash, bones, mixture, etc. until the entire pit is filled, which is covered with earth and, having poured a little slurry through the holes made by the stake, they cover it with straw. A week later, the pit is opened, everything is mixed, watered again with slurry and closed again. After 2-3 months, repeat the same. After 5-6 months, the bones are completely destroyed, mixed with the rest of the substances in the pit, and thus a very good bone fertilizer is obtained.

Disposal of bones in horticulture For this, there is no need to either turn the bones into flour or subject them to appropriate chemical manipulations. It is enough to crush the bones with a hammer into pieces, dig around the tree in places closest to the root branches, and, mixing the crushed bones with loose earth, cover the dug-in places with them. Bones, decomposing gradually in the earth, enrich it, among other things, with nitrogen and phosphorus salts, which are so important for plants. Thin root branches have the ability to find food on their own, and if, after a certain time after the indicated fertilizer, the soil is exposed in the place where the bones are located, then the latter turn out to be entangled and penetrated in different directions by thin root hairs, extracting food elements necessary for the tree from decaying bones. Consequently, the whole task is only to deliver crushed bones to these root hairs, which, of course, is very important, since with this method of fertilization the need for pre-treatment of bones is completely eliminated.

Other fertilizers

Peat in gardening I took cuttings of tuberous begonias, then took petunias, ficuses and other plants and planted them in sand, in the ground and in peat, and then put them in a warm place. At the same time, I noticed that peat turned out to be the best medium for cuttings from all these materials, because all the cuttings rotted in the ground, and in the sand, for example, tuberous begonias did not form any influx even after three weeks. In peat, on the contrary, all the cuttings took root perfectly, and the ficus developed such mighty roots that at first I even thought if they belonged to some other plant. Peat debris for planting cuttings follows P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

sift through a sieve with 8 mm holes. The residues resulting from this can go into soil mixtures for various plants or for drainage into pots. For the latter purpose, for large plants, even pieces of peat the size of a chicken egg can be used. It is especially useful to mix peat into earth mixtures for ferns.

Peat has the precious property of immediately absorbing a lot of water, but at the first need, give it back again. Due to this property, peat almost completely does not contribute to the processes of decay. In my opinion, for the purposes of plant propagation, peat should be preferred to all other materials in horticulture, in addition, it should long ago be attributed the role of a universal remedy, suitable for many other purposes.

Significance of green manure for the garden Manure is the usual material for fertilizing the garden, meanwhile, experiments prove that green manure is an excellent means of fertilizing the soil and bringing it to a better cultural condition. Cereal plants (rye, wheat, etc.), cruciferous plants (cabbage of all kinds, mustard, etc.) extract nitrogen from nitrate salts contained in the soil; in other words, their yields depend on the application of fertilizers containing nitrogen in one form or another. Moth plants, on the other hand, have the ability to assimilate nitrogen from the air, as a result of which these plants enrich the soil with nitrogen and develop themselves perfectly even on soils where the normal development of any other plants would require the introduction of significant amounts of fertilizers. In addition, as experiments have shown, cultivating plants for green manure contributes to the formation of dew, that is, moistening the soil, warming and loosening it, increasing nitrogen reserves, accelerating the process of decomposition of minerals in the soil and increasing humus.

In general, the cultivation of plants for green manure gives ripeness to the soil, which favorably affects the growth of yields. Compared to manure, green mass even has some advantages: it decomposes faster than manure straw, gives excellent humus, and the nitrogen contained in it has higher fertilizing qualities than manure nitrogen. Nitrogenous compounds of green manure are easily soluble, which explains the strongest effect of the plowed green mass. In vegetable gardens, especially bad ones, it is difficult to make full use of green manure: for this, the given area would have to be left free from garden crops for the summer and sown with lupins or some other plants used for green manure. In autumn, the green mass would be plowed in, and garden plants in this area could only be sown the next year. Therefore, it is necessary to sow lupins in the area closest to the garden, mow and carry to the fertilized area, where it is already plowed. In this case, lupins bring only partial benefit: part of the stems, no matter how low the plants are cut, remains at the place of sowing, and most importantly, the roots remain there, which loosen the deeper layers of the soil and make them available to plants.

Compost heaps and goose manure Compost heaps in all cases are arranged in places not exposed to the action of the sun, shaded. The basis of the heap is a platform (litter) of 0.1 acres, raised above the soil surface by 35 cm, made of sod plates or from earth taken out of old ditches and well-aged. In both cases, the soil must contain a significant amount of humus, which is necessary to retain moisture, ammonia and solutions of other nutrients. On the surface of the site, a layer of 6–9 cm is poured, mixed with the ground, goose droppings, sprinkled with a small amount (2–3 handfuls) of SveP. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

slaked lime, and covered with a layer of manure (cow or horse) in 14–18 cm.

A second layer of goose manure is poured onto the manure layer, but with a thickness equal to the first, and also mixed with lime and earth, which is again immediately covered with a layer of 14–18 cm of manure, etc. The final layer of manure should be 20–20 cm thick. 25 cm; individual piles can reach up to 2 m in height. Each newly laid layer of goose droppings and manure is immediately, after its laying, carefully watered with slurry, water from washing clothes (soapy), slops or even plain water. Both unfinished due to the lack of goose manure heaps, and finished ones are watered every 3-4 days so abundantly that the heaps are moistened every time in their entire thickness.

During the summer, depending on the degree of decomposition of goose manure, heaps are transferred 2-3 times from one sod area to another, for which the mass of the heap is cut along a vertical line along one of the side walls and in full width into layers 14-18 cm thick. Each cut layer is thoroughly mixed with shovels or forks, and then laid in an even horizontal layer on another sod area. In the same way they do with all subsequent layers, as well as with each throwing of heaps. When the heap is transferred to another base, it is carefully watered with slurry, etc.

and then its surface is covered separately with a layer of manure and earth, each with a thickness of 9–13 cm. With the described care of the heap, goose manure compost, as it easily decomposes, will be quite ready for use in 7–8 months and, as strong, quite complete fertilizer, suitable for all types of plants that require a strong nitrogenous fertilizer, for fertilizing the ground when planting trees or fertilizing the near-stem circles of already planted mature trees. Under the corresponding agricultural plant, up to 50 tons per 1 ha are required; for cabbage - 1-2 handfuls for each plant during hilling;

under the beets - sprinkle with a layer of 2 cm between the rows and wrap; under cucumbers - in grooves (in rows) before sowing in a mixture with an equal amount of earth with a layer of 6–9 cm. The seeds are covered with the same mixture under fruit trees: when planting - in planting land, 16 kg each;

when fertilizing planted trees, before digging near-stem circles, 16–25 kg are scattered on the surface of the circle; for berry bushes - 8 kg for each copy.

Liquid fertilizer Liquid fertilizer has the main advantage of being fast acting. They can quickly enhance the nutrition of the plant at the time of its greatest vital activity. Liquid fertilizer has a significant effect on the development of fruits already on fruit trees, on the longer fertility of cucumbers. Failures with it often come from the inability to cook it. To harvest this fertilizer, you need to dig an old barrel into the ground in a place rarely visited by people. Up to half of its capacity, put, if possible without straw, pure cow dung and human excrement, add 26 kg of fresh ash, soot and pour in 34 buckets of kitchen slops. Top up the rest with water.

In the first 10 days, you need to stir everything in the barrel well every day. Then let it settle for 3-4 days, and the fertilizer is ready for use.

Watering with liquid fertilizer For watering, take the settled liquid, without thick, with watering cans or buckets, dilute it in half with clean water and water the plants. It is dangerous to water with undiluted liquid, as the roots can get sick; it is better to repeat the fertilizer if necessary than to immediately give it in a concentrated form. It is also useless to water strongly in one go, because in this case the liquid will go below the location of the roots and remain unused. You can water with liquid fertilizer all plants without exception, like P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

in the garden, garden, and flower beds. You don't need to water more than once a week. Before watering, it is necessary to make holes (cups) near the bushes so that the fertilizer does not spill into unnecessary places. The soil of the plants watered with fertilizer should not be dry, but slightly moist. In case of excessive dryness, it is necessary to water with clean water first, and then with fertilizer. This is important because the roots, which are in great need of moisture, will immediately begin to absorb fertilizer greedily and may become sick. The most favorable time for watering with fertilizer is the evening time. You can start around 5pm. When watering fruit trees with fertilizer, you need to make holes under the tree with a stake, not very close to the trunk, and pour liquid into it. Under a large tree, in which the crown occupies about 2 m in one direction, one should retreat 1 m from the trunk. When the liquid is absorbed by the soil, the holes should be filled up. Fruit trees can be watered with fertilizer only until mid-June.

Pigeon manure fertilizer According to its composition, pigeon manure can be classified as a complete fertilizer, it can fertilize the soil for all plants, both field and garden and garden. For fertilizing fruit trees, from 4 to 16 kg of pigeon manure per tree is taken, depending on the age of the latter. Litter is scattered around the tree in autumn or early spring and is buried in the ground for one shovel. For large garden plants (for example, cabbage, asparagus, etc.), pigeon manure is best used as a local fertilizer, a handful for each plant, covering it with 5 cm of earth. Old strawberry and strawberry plantations are fertilized with pigeon manure in the spring, before growth begins , and freshly planted plantations should be fertilized only when the plants have already taken root and started to grow. On a ridge of 0.5 acres, about 8 kg of litter is taken. Fertilizer watering from pigeon manure works much faster, it can be watered in moderation with all garden plants, as well as strawberries. To prepare a fertilizer watering from pigeon manure, the latter is poured into a tub and diluted with at least 10 volumes of water.

Dissolution and fermentation of the litter is quite slow, 2-3 weeks. You should mix the litter in water daily and use only the fermented mixture.

Blood fertilization The blood of slaughterhouses contains 80% water, 3% organic nitrogen, phosphoric acid

- 0.04%, potassium - 0.06%. Having a fairly large percentage of digestible nitrogen, blood is a very valuable fertilizer. It is consumed either in a liquid state, or in a dry state, in the form of blood meal. In a liquid state, blood is either directly watered on the ground, or first diluted with water. In both cases, immediate plowing into the ground after watering is required. In gardening, blood is often mixed with peat or dry soil and applied to the soil as a powder. Compost heaps are also watered with blood, which greatly increases the nutritional value of the compost. To prepare a fertilizer topping up from the blood, the blood is diluted with two volumes of water (for 1 bucket of blood - 2 buckets of water). After two weeks, the liquid will ferment well with daily stirring and will be quite suitable for watering plants. To fertilize the garden, blood can be used fresh and undiluted, pouring it evenly over the entire surface of the garden in the spring, immediately before the spring plowing of the garden, in the amount of 15–20 barrels per 1 ha. Fruit trees and berry trees can also be watered with fresh undiluted blood. When planting trees, you can use blood only in the form of compost, adding the latter to the soil intended for filling holes. Before planting trees, for 2-3 weeks, you can fertilize the entire garden area with liquid fresh blood in the same way as for garden plants.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Forest land as fertilizer According to T. Falkenstein, forest land is the best way to fertilize fruit trees. It is best to apply it as follows: at the end of September, the fruit tree is dug around at such a distance so as not to damage the roots, with a ditch 35 cm deep, and this ditch is filled with forest humus; in addition, the entire earth from the trunk to the ditch is removed by 18 cm and is also replaced with humus.

Fertilizer with ashes as a remedy for fruit rotting The German owner Baumbach reports that by several experiments with the Cellini apple variety he managed to find out that hard wood ash (beech, oak, etc.) is very a good remedy for fertilizing trees, preventing the appearance of rot on the fruits.

Autumn digging and fertilizing the soil of the orchard with manure or furnace ash It is useful to do autumn digging or plowing the soil annually. Lumps resulting from digging should be immediately broken up and the entire surface leveled with a rake. Loose, reduced to a grainy state, but not crushed into powder, in the absence of weeds, the soil perfectly resists droughts and absorbs part of the moisture from the air at night. Manure, depending on its quality, can be put from 16 to 32 kg per 0.05 acres, or, more simply, up to 10 cm thick if it is too strawy.

When crushing manure, it is necessary to observe that it does not lie close to the trunks of trees, but that around the trunks there is open space, approximately 25 cm from the trunks. In the spring, it is better not to bury manure in the ground, but, having crushed it on the surface, leave it like that for the whole summer in the form of shading. During summer rains, it is useful to shovel manure from trees so that the soil gets wet better, and after rain, immediately cover the ground again. Such work is inexpensive, but very useful. During autumn digging, the already half-decayed remains of manure can be buried in the ground, but they can be left unburied the next summer, adding where it is scarce, and in the next (second) autumn, bury no deeper than 10 cm.

Manure left for the second summer, before the autumn digging of the soil, should be raked into heaps, and scatter again in the spring. Furnace ash is used as a surface fertilizer. Ash fertilizer belongs to the slowly soluble, and therefore it is better to scatter the ash in the fall or, in extreme cases, in early spring as soon as the snow melts.

Using Bird Dung and Blood Meal as Fertilizer The timing of fertilization for fruit trees is of great importance, and it is far from indifferent whether this fertilizer is applied in spring, summer or autumn. As for bird droppings, this fertilizer is best applied in early spring, and, in any case, not later than the first half of summer, since otherwise (with late application) the growing season may be delayed and the trees may suffer from frost. Bird droppings can be given up to 8 kg per mature tree after 3-4 years. Blood meal (dried blood) is applied in late autumn or winter, it can also be applied in early spring, up to 2 kg per tree, burying, like manure, to a shallow depth. A necessary precaution when fertilizing young plantings with cainite PN Shteinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Instructions regarding the harmful effects of Cainite are repeated quite often. This is explained, apparently, by the presence of chlorine. Although chloride compounds are easily washed out of the soil, the roots of fruit trees extend so deeply that their contact with harmful chloride compounds can be quite long. Cases of adverse effects of kainite are not uncommon, especially when used to fertilize young planted trees. Such fertilized trees often die, especially if cainite is mixed with soil used to fill the roots. When digging up dead trees, one could notice that their roots turned black from the action of Cainite, not giving young roots. Therefore, it is advised to replace kainite with potassium chloride or potassium sulphate (15–20 g per 1 m3), or to keep in mind some precautions.

These precautions are as follows:

Cainite does not mix with the earth to fill the planting hole, but is scattered from above and pinned to a shallow depth: rainwater gradually transfers potassium to the lower soil layers to the roots of trees;

Cainite is introduced not in spring, but in autumn, long before the growing season, so that harmful chloride compounds can be washed out of the soil;

Cainite is used only on light sandy soils, where leaching is easier, in addition, on clay soils, cainite promotes the formation of a crust;

Cainite is absolutely not used for fertilizing peaches and apricot trees, for which it turns out to be unconditionally harmful.

Watering fruit trees with liquid fertilizer Starting from mid-May and throughout the summer, it is useful to water the trees with liquid fertilizer three times: the first time - when the trees bloom; the second time - when the ovary of the fruit reaches the size of a hazelnut, and the third time - at the beginning of July, in order to promote greater formation of fruit buds for the next summer. The best solution for such watering should be considered a solution of pigeon droppings. The solution itself is prepared in various strengths, the next one is the best. 1/3 of the barrel of dry pigeon manure is poured into a forty-bucket barrel and, having topped up the barrel with water, the solution is allowed to ferment, and it is stirred daily. The day before watering, a bucket of furnace ash is added to the solution and, having thoroughly mixed, watering is carried out. To do this, a bucket of liquid fertilizer is diluted with two buckets of water. For young trees, this amount of watering is enough;

for older adults, the amount of liquid fertilizer diluted with water is doubled.

Watering is carried out, of course, not at the stem itself, but at a distance of 1–1.5 m from it, depending on the width of the crown. As experience shows, thanks to such watering, trees and shrubs grow stronger and bear larger fruits. Where it is impossible to have pigeon droppings, one has to be content with barn dung. Liquid fertilizer is prepared from it in the same way as from pigeon manure, only before watering, this solution is diluted with water not by 2/3, but by half.

Water infusions of various plant materials as fertilizers Very often it is poured out on the farm as completely useless waste water after wetting flax, etc. Meanwhile, experiments show that such water contains many nutrients suitable for fertilizing the soil. According to Tsurikov's observations, water infused with straw residues or scraps of alfalfa is a strong fertilizer that simultaneously influences extremely favorably both the percentage of seed germination and the favorable development of seedlings.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

In the same way, many other plant wastes, which usually disappear without any use, are in fact the richest fertilizers. This, as already mentioned, includes water when wetting flax. This soaking water, very rich in nitrogenous substances, is a very strong fertilizer. The best results are obtained from waste water from potato graters.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

–  –  –

Evening watering In all those cases when water from stagnant reservoirs is used for watering garden plants, evening watering should be preferred. This means that aquatic plants grow in the reservoir. This preference for evening watering follows from the following considerations. The roots of cultivated plants absorb significant amounts of oxygen, but there is very little oxygen in the deeper layers of the soil, especially if it is not introduced with rainwater or irrigation water. That is why it is very important that the water used for irrigation contains as much oxygen as possible. Since plants decompose carbon dioxide only in the light, and the released oxygen is absorbed by water, it is clear that the highest oxygen content in water is observed in the evening.

Conversely, during the night, a significant part of the oxygen is absorbed through the process of respiration. From this follow two basic rules of watering:

It is best to use water from stagnant ponds containing a sufficient number of aquatic plants.

It is necessary to use such water in the evening, when the oxygen content is highest. Since the decomposition of carbon dioxide is most intense on clear days, it is recommended to water it in the evening after such clear days.

It is interesting to note that, on the basis of experiments, it turned out that the amount of oxygen in stagnant reservoirs containing a sufficient number of aquatic plants is much higher than can be obtained by shaking well or rain water (to obtain oxygen from the air).

The best water for watering plants When watering plants, the quality of the water plays an important role. Where rain or pond water can be used, it should be preferred to all other water. River water is also good, but only on condition that it is not contaminated with various kinds of factory waste. As for well water, it must always be used with great care: such water contains lime and other minerals, which often cause root diseases, especially of tender plants. Therefore, in those cases when it is impossible to make a choice and you have to be content with well water, it is necessary to soften it by artificial methods - best of all, by adding not a large number potassium carbonate or potash. Then, in all cases, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the water does not have a low temperature: the most suitable temperature should be that which the water has, which has stood for half a day in the room where the watered plants usually stand. Some even advise heating the water so that it differs by a few degrees more. high temperature than the temperature of the room where the plants are kept.

But this kind of advice should be followed with great care:

abuses of warm water in winter easily pamper the roots of plants, and they become excessively sensitive to all kinds of colds. Therefore, it is best to stick to the very temperature that the rooms have: after all, PN Steinberg has this temperature. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

both the soil and the roots of plants, and therefore, when watering with water of such a temperature, vibrations harmful to plants can always be avoided.

–  –  –

Can I water in full sun?

Usually they say no. My experience has not confirmed this rule at all:

for many years I watered both flower beds and gardens in the sun and did not notice any harm, with all my desire. With the scorching sun, at noon, of course, I did not water, but for completely different reasons: the air at this time is so dry that a significant part of the water quickly evaporates. Consequently, watering at this time partly does not achieve its goal due to unproductive, excessive loss of water and labor. As soon as the scorching heat stops, that is, from 3-4 hours, you can safely start watering without fear of burning the plants. I repeat that during many years of experience I have not had to observe any harmful effects from the influence of the sun.

Rational way of watering In order for watering to fully achieve its goal, the ridges should be made slightly concave, that is, the middle of the ridges should be made slightly lower than the edges; it is quite enough if the edges are 5 cm above the middle. Under this condition, water will not drain from the ridges. They start watering with watering cans, which have nets on, and quickly moisten the topmost layer of the ridges. This technique is necessary so that during further watering, water is more easily absorbed into the depths of the ridge. Readers probably noticed that in flower pots, if the top layer is excessively dry, the water stays for a long time during watering, not being absorbed at all. One has only to moisten the top layer, then, no matter how much water we pour, it will be quickly absorbed. The same thing happens with ridges: water runs off from a dry surface without being absorbed, and wetted ridges can be watered already without a net with a relatively strong stream. It is even more reliable to slightly loosen the ridge before watering, which is quite possible with ordinary crops: water is absorbed into loosened soil even better. I wouldn't recommend watering in the morning. Soon after watering, baking begins, and most of the moisture is wasted aimlessly. On the contrary, when watering from 3–4 pm until late in the evening, all water is absorbed into the soil. If, early next morning, the watered ridges are lightly loosened with three- or four-toothed hoes, or even with a sparse-toothed iron rake, the moisture will be prevented from evaporating for a long time.

How to water flowering plants?

Flowerbeds with low plants, with small, but appearing in abundance flowers, water through the net. At the same time, once or twice a week, the flower beds are soaked to the full depth, that is, at least 15 cm, and on other days it can be limited to only surface spraying. It is better not to spray plants with large flowers, as water that has fallen on the petals spoils them, causing an early fading. Consequently, it is more reliable to water such plants directly from the toe of the watering can, without touching the flowers and thereby saving them.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

On the question of watering and the best use of rain In the southern provinces, on especially hot days, sometimes the plants fade in the middle of the day, the leaves fall, as if from a lack of moisture, although abundant watering was carried out the day before. The first movement at the sight of faded plants is to grab a watering can with water and water them. But there will be no sense from such watering. Moisture will be immediately absorbed by hot air.

As soon as the heat subsides slightly, even if the sun is still quite high, you can start watering without fear of damaging the plants. If, after a hot day, when the earth is dry, clouds appear in the sky and the air smells of rain, then it is at this time that we can provide the plants with the greatest help. Immediately take hoes and hastily, roughly loosen the surface of flower beds and ridges, as far as possible without harming the plants. Then all the rain moisture will be absorbed by the soil, and not a single drop of it will escape in vain, as it would be with the compacted surface of the ridges. If the garden is large, and there are few working hands, you can limit yourself to drawing furrows along the edges of the ridges, which will retain the flowing moisture. It is better to water the flower garden and the garden less often, but to a sufficient depth, and to spray, wash off the dust from the plants - more often, if possible. We should not forget that an earthen flea does not sit on sprayed plants - terrible enemy cabbage plants in the garden, levkoev - in the flower garden. Therefore, in order to save these plants, we will not be too lazy to spray them once again, achieving two goals at once. Of course, we are talking about watering home gardens and flower beds.

In industrial horticulture, watering is used in very rare cases: watering is replaced by proper, reasonable plant care.

Method of watering with a rope This method is used only in exceptional cases. Not far from the plant that they want to water, a bucket or some other tall container with water is placed. A cotton or hemp cord is taken and untwisted slightly to make it easier to absorb water. One end of this string is lowered into a bucket of water, and the other is loosely wrapped around the stem of the plant to be watered. Then the rope or lace begins to play the role of siphons, the water gradually runs down the fibers of the lace and slowly but continuously wets the stem of the plant and the ground around the stem. This method is used if they want to grow outstanding pumpkins, berries, etc., but it is of little practical importance. The same method is sometimes used when leaving the apartment in the summer for a few days and leaving the plants without care.

Way of watering steppe gardens Steppe gardens are watered two to six times during the summer, and each time the tree receives 20 to 30 buckets of water. Wells are, of course, the source of water in the steppe.

Water is supplied mostly in buckets or wineskins into a tub standing on a hill (1–1.5 m) near the well. From the tub it is distributed over the trees at 100 m in all directions from it with a sleeve of homemade calico. At first, ordinary fire hoses were used for this purpose, but they were inconvenient due to their rough structure, blocking the movement of water when bending, in addition, they soon deteriorated from earth or clay.

It occurred to someone to make a thinner and more durable watering sleeve. The inventor settled on ordinary calico. A sleeve 20 m long is painted over with oil paint three times, dried and used. Serves up to 4-5 years. When watering distant rows, several ends are connected into one, and the connection is made on special iron tubes 20–25 cm long.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

–  –  –

gardening commandments

The 10 commandments of the gardener should be observed:

1. Gardening is the most pleasant and profitable occupation, and no industry Agriculture cannot give such an income as is obtained from a garden from a given area of ​​land.

2. Plant fruit trees and berry bushes wherever there is free space on the estate.

3. Do not bow to new varieties, but choose those that give the best income in the area.

4. Remember that only selected 2-3 varieties for your garden will make it profitable. The more varieties in the garden, the less fruit will be, because not all varieties are suitable for your area.

5. Honor the fruit tree, as well as any domestic animal that was created for the benefit of man.

6. Feed him.

7. Get him drunk.

8. A fruit tree, like any living creature, has many diseases and enemies:

heal his illnesses and drive out the enemies, the tree will reward you with ten for this.

9. Keep the garden soil under black fallow. It is easy for roots to breathe only in loose, moist soil, from where they draw water and soil salts dissolved in it.

10. Take care that every branch covered with leaves enjoys the sunlight. The leaf on the trees is the same as the lungs and stomach of animals. They breathe with leaves and process food from the air under the influence of sun rays.

Basic provisions for the care of fruit trees

Trees must have a highly developed root system; the best fruits are usually obtained from the 2nd and 3rd harvest.

Trees should be quite healthy and grow, having access to air and light. On trees with cracked bark, especially large fruits cannot be obtained.

The largest and most beautiful fruits are produced only by healthy trees, on which the gardener managed to save all the foliage, destroy in a timely manner both the May worm and other harmful insects. On trees with eaten foliage, a large crop and large fruits can never be obtained.

It is necessary to water on time and skillfully.

It has big influence and soil.

The soil in the garden must be kept in a black steam in a loosened state. It is enough after the first rain under any tree not to loosen the compacted soil, as the fruits stop growing and even begin to crumble.

Best results are obtained in warm soils and in a sunny location.

Approval has the strongest effect if given in a timely manner.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Proper and careful pruning is essential, with dwarf trees pruned annually and larger trees during the first 6-8 years.

Choosing a site for a garden When choosing a site for a garden, it is necessary to take into account both the slope and physical properties soils, especially its water capacity. With slopes to the south, it is good and nutritious, but light soil is inappropriate, since moisture does not hold in such soil. On the contrary, cohesive, heavier and cooler soil at the same location is much better.

The same must be said about the eastern slope, on which, moreover, the withering winds and frosts of spring have the most harmful influence. Thus, if there is light and dry soil, then preference should be given to the western slope. In general, the southwestern and partly southeastern slopes should be considered the most suitable. In areas with hot summers, purely southern slopes should be avoided most of all. High but level locations in Southern Russia are quite suitable for fruit growing if they have sufficient protection and moisture capacity of the subsoil, even if the groundwater is at a depth of 17–25 m. Too low places are unsuitable for fruit crops. But not particularly low ones, where groundwater is no higher than 4–6 m, are quite good. With this location, any soil benefits qualitatively. If in such places the underground water rises higher in winter, then it is necessary to make a higher landing. As for the northern and middle provinces, fruit orchards here require a drier location on moderately elevated soil, otherwise the danger of freezing increases enormously even when the soil is drained. Often in Northern Russia there is a clay subsoil of a reddish or bluish color. It is to be avoided in the establishment of gardens, just as the subsoil dampness from groundwater, which often occurs at the foot of mountains and even on small slopes, where the subsoil is impervious to water, should be avoided. These are the main positive and negative sides those general requirements that must be borne in mind when choosing a location for a garden.

What honey shrubs are suitable for hedges near the orchard and bee house?

This does not mean planting a protective strip near the garden, but only a hedge, and in the foreground is the honey-bearing plants chosen for protection. For this purpose, sucker or wild olive is recommended. If sucker seedlings are planted in two rows, at a distance of 70 cm between rows and 40 cm between plants in rows, in 3-4 years you will get an excellent hedge. To make it thicker, after 3-4 years after planting, cut down the plants in the spring near the ground itself, then the roots will put down a lot of shoots that form an impenetrable wall.

This plant is also beneficial because it is not damaged by either livestock or insects, and people are reluctant to climb through such a fence, fearing thorns. To extend the honey flow from such a hedge, you can plant it on one or both sides with perennial asters.

During flowering (from July to frost), such a hedge has a remarkably beautiful appearance.

Are shrubs and forests near an orchard harmful?

It depends entirely on the distance at which these plantings are located. From the prevailing winds, especially cold winds, such protection can be extremely useful, but on condition that the nearest row of fruit trees is no closer than 16–20 m from the bush. Of course, if the forest is closely adjacent to the fruit tree P. N. Steinberg . “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

the garden, then significant damage can be caused: the free exchange of air will be difficult, the trees can be shaded, as a result of which the wood will not ripen;

the number of ovaries on shaded trees will be less. Harmful insects in such a garden will find excellent shelters for themselves, and the fight against them will be extremely difficult.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

Labels and labels in horticulture There are two types of markings on planting labels: either the entire name of the plant is written on them, or only the number under which it is listed in the alphabetical list of the garden book is indicated. The first method is convenient for small amateur gardens;

the second is used in extensive industrial or large experimental garden plantings. The first method requires large labels, and more time for designation than the second (circumstances that are quite important in saving the economy and in the haste of business). It goes without saying that in order to preserve the correctness of the names, this matter must be entrusted to a person accustomed to accuracy and attentiveness, and not entrusted to inexperienced. In addition, the labels themselves must meet two requirements - low cost and durability of their storage. The material for the labels is usually wood and zinc sheets.

They are cooked in different ways: either standing, stuck into the ground, or hanging, suspended on the branches of plants or to pegs specially prepared for this. The most suitable and beautiful material will be zinc, but it does not satisfy one of the conditions - cheapness. You can somewhat reduce the cost of zinc plates by buying zinc sheets and cutting labels by the gardener himself, but there will be little benefit from this.

Ink for garden labels They are prepared as follows: copper sulphate is dissolved in warm distilled water, and in the absence of it, in rain water until saturation, that is, until it dissolves. Then the solution is allowed to cool and, having drained it, pure Dutch soot is added to it in a proportion of approximately 2 tablespoons - 1/2 teaspoon. Then it is shaken strongly and for a long time so that all the soot is wetted (does not dissolve), and the ink is ready. It is good to have a bottle for ink with a ground stopper and shake it every time before use.

Cheap zinc labels To do this, they take the thinnest zinc sheets, cover them with oil paint on one side and, breaking them with a pencil into narrow plates 1 cm wide and wider, and as long as necessary, make inscriptions on them with a steel pencil on the painted side, leaning heavily, and then cut into plates, as they are intended. A steel pencil can be made at home by passing an ordinary thick, sharply turned needle into a tree with a blunt end, after shortening it to 3 cm and glowing red-hot over a fire. These labels are directly wrapped around any tree branch or trunk. They are, one might say, eternal, hardly noticeable to the curious and cannot spoil the tree, as they are springy.

Cardboard labels Wooden labels are made from small boards. Their preparation does not present any special features. It is advantageous to replace them with cardboard labels. From one sheet 100 cm long and 70 cm wide, 420 pieces of plates 5 cm long and 3 cm wide are cut out, quite sufficient to make an inscription and hang or attach them. Cardboard is prepared in this way: first, the sheet is oiled with boiled oil (linseed oil) on both sides, and after drying, it is passed a second time with liquid diluted paint of the desired color. The cheapest is slightly yellow (ochre). They let it dry well so that it does not stick, and, marking the entire cardboard with a pencil into plates of the above size, cut the knife. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

prostrate. To make holes, use an ordinary straight awl. The material with which these labels are hung is any rope, twine, bast, raffia, etc. In order to protect such material as twine from rapid destruction, the ropes cut into 25–30 cm long are oiled with boiled oil or soaked for a week in strong solution of iron sulphate. Labels prepared in this way serve up to 5 years or more. For inscription use an ordinary soft pencil. Such an inscription is retained for a very long time. Cardboard labels are also advantageous in that they are light, and therefore are not so easily damaged by the wind and, being less noticeable, do not serve as bait for children and in general for the curious, and therefore are not stolen. Quite often it is necessary to impose labels on objects that must be kept in the ground during the winter (vine shank, flower bulbs, etc.). For this purpose, zinc labels are most suitable, the inscription on which does not disappear even in the ground. Cardboard labels in the ground can only last one winter, and the inscription on them remains clear only in this case, if it is not stained with liquid mud.

Labels for fruit trees When using zinc labels on copper wires after a severe winter, the bark on each tree under the label was completely black, as if burnt, and under the wire - exactly the same stripe. The affected bark was removed, but the trees turned their leaves late and withered. This phenomenon (lesion of the bark) is attributed to the electric current formed from the contact of zinc labels with copper wire. This does not happen with iron wires.

Paint a wooden board with white lead paint and write, while the paint is cheese, with a simple pencil the name of the plant. Even the labels for winter and summer, accidentally lost and trampled in the ground, still do not lose their clarity. You can use labels from a thin zinc sheet, on which to make inscriptions with a solution of platinum chloride (platinum chloratum);

when the inscriptions made with a quill pen turn black, the boards are carefully dipped in water and then used, serving for many years without change, especially if they are coated with a good varnish. But sheets must be taken of zinc, and not galvanized iron, on which platinum chloride does not turn black. For 1 part of platinum chloride take 8 parts of water and 1 part of hydrochloric acid. Four parts of the solution will be enough for 100-200 inscriptions.

tree tag in nursery

Any possibility of mixing varieties should be eliminated:

On the vine

When digging and packing,

When landing at destinations.

For this you need:

Records of rows and varieties in books and plans of quarters with the exact designation of rows and names;

Before the sale season begins, labels must be placed on all the trees of the quarter to be dug up;

Labels should be with indelible and non-weathering inscriptions, durable so that these inscriptions will not soon be lost among the buyers in the garden; best material for labels, there may be zinc, on which the most durable inscriptions can be made with platinum chloride for decades;

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

So that the labels do not break, they must be attached with strong tin elastic wire, threaded through two holes on the label so that it does not sway from the wind, and the ends of the wire must be so long that, being coiled, they can wrap around another branch of a tree on which label is attached.

Curling the ends of the wire into a spiral, as experiments show, is certainly necessary so that when the branch grows in thickness, the wire does not cut into the bark and does not cut the knot. The spiral is easily made by simply winding the ends of the wire onto a thick steel knitting rod or a wire round nail. As the bough thickens, the spiral unfolds little by little, without restricting the bark.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

–  –  –

Sowing wild game seeds For seed beds, you need to choose a place protected from cold and dry winds, but not near a wall facing south, where the seedlings burn out. It is necessary to dig up to a depth of 50 cm a few months before sowing, before which the earth should be loosened again. In a dry, hot climate, the ridges should be deepened by 4.5–9 cm. Best time for sowing - autumn. Before sowing, the seeds are placed in water for a while, and pear and quince seeds are wetted for a longer time and, taken out, rubbed with their hands to free them from mucus. Sow in October-November, pressing down with hands or rakes and covering with a layer of earth of 2-3 fingers, and for grain-bearing - 2 cm.

Then the furrows are filled with old cow dung - from frost, heat and dryness. In Odessa, in the main school of horticulture, fruit crops are never watered. Only in case of severe drought it is necessary to water once or twice, but plentifully. Yadroplodnye (drupaceous) can be transplanted into the nursery in a year, and grain-bearing - after two, but can not be left longer.

Sowing pear and apple seeds For sowing, a low place is chosen on light, but sufficiently nutritious soil, or enhanced fertilizer is used. A shallow pass of half a bayonet contributes to the conservation of moisture in the soil. Watering crops is given plentiful; weeding is done in a timely manner and better too early than too late. If the crop is very thick, the weakest seedlings are pulled out. A distance of 25–35 cm is given between the rows, which makes it possible to loosen the ground with a hoe when the seedlings reach 18 cm. With such care, 50–70 thousand seedlings were obtained from 7 acres of sowing. Pear seeds germinate more amicably than apple seeds. The place for the ridges is chosen as low as possible, plowed deeply in the fall and then twice in the spring. The beds are given the direction from east to west. At the same time, beds for picking are made, which are plowed even deeper. Soon after sowing, if the beds are always wet, shoots appear; and when the plants develop two leaves, except for the cotyledons, they swoop down. It is more practical to sow seeds in autumn on loosened ridges - in rows in shallow grooves, which are covered, like whole ridges, with rotted manure a finger thick. In the spring, the manure is removed, and the beds are loosened with a rake. With fresh seeds, friendly shoots are obtained in a few days. Spring sowing is less successful and requires more care and maintenance. Wilds for planting are selected of the same height with developed roots, rich lobes.

Is it possible to sow germinated seeds of fruit trees?

Sanded seeds sometimes germinate early, when they cannot yet be sown:

the plot intended for sowing has not yet been freed from snow, its soil has not dried up enough to work on it, etc. What then should be done with germinated seeds? They can be sown, and they will give excellent shoots. In horticulture, the germination of seeds that are difficult and slow to germinate is widely used and gives good results. Why should the germination of seeds of fruit trees be harmful? In 1905

I had to be late with the sowing of sanded seeds of apple, pear and quince. In autumn, P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

they could not be sown, but in the spring it was not possible to sow them for a long time, since the soil of the plot intended for sowing was so damp that it was impossible to walk on it. Seeds were sown when they gave sprouts up to 2 cm in length. The distribution of seeds along the grooves and the incorporation of the earth were carried out carefully so as not to break the fragile sprouts. Seedlings appeared quickly and amicably. By autumn they have grown into good wild animals. Their root system turned out to be better than that of wildlings grown from seeds that did not germinate before sowing.

Before, I had to observe favorable results from sowing with germinated seeds, but then the sowing areas were of insignificant size, in this case, an area of ​​​​5 acres was sown.

When is the best time to sow apple and pear seeds?

The best time for sowing is considered late autumn. Seeds sown at this time, without delay and together sprout in early spring. The attack of mice, the belated receipt of seeds and other reasons make it sometimes necessary to postpone sowing until spring. In such cases, the seeds are sanded, that is, they are mixed with wet sand. For 1 part of seeds, 4-6 parts of sand are taken. After thoroughly mixing the seeds with sand, they are poured into boxes, bowls and other utensils in a thin layer (20–30 cm). It is necessary to save the seeds in a frost-free room - a cellar, a basement, a pit. Since sanded seeds germinate very early, they must be sown as early as possible in the spring, as soon as the soil thaws. Sprouted seeds are sown carefully so as not to break the sprouts. When sowing seeds in the autumn, they are well protected from mice by red lead coloring, which, unfortunately, is rarely used in our country.

seedlings

Selection of Seeds for Obtaining Seedling Fruit Trees Seeds with the correct structure are obtained from selected, tasty, beautiful, fully mature fruits collected from healthy trees of non-degenerating varieties. They are cleaned and immediately sown. You can wait with sowing until the end of winter, but it is preferable to do immediate sowing. In both cases, the seeds must be protected from rodents, from sudden changes in temperature and from excessive dampness. Crops in pots are more likely to be successful than soil crops. They can also be made in boxes. One or the other is filled with good loose earth mixed with humus, after which the seeds are sown at a great distance from each other so as not to hamper their development. Seeds cover 1–2 cm of the same soil, and big bones- a layer of earth 3–4 cm. Then the boxes covered with manure straw are placed on the ground under some kind of protection, for example, under frames. Water occasionally when the soil dries out. As soon as germination begins, you need to open the boxes and water the plants that have appeared several times, which favors their development.

Transplantation of seedlings A tree bears fruits earlier and in greater abundance, the more it has root hairs and the closer these latter are to the soil surface. The best example is a pear grafted on a quince. As soon as the first leaf appears, the young seedling must be carefully transplanted with a peg. Cut off part of the stem with scissors and transplant the young plants one by one into pots 10–16 cm in diameter, filled with the best soil beforehand. They are watered and protected from the heat of the sun. PreimuP. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

The essence of this transplant is the development of a large number of roots. After 8-10 days, the pots are buried next to each other in the garden, leaving there without cover from the sun's rays.

Transplanting into the ground Whatever the number of preliminary transplants, young trees are transplanted into the ground immediately after the leaves fall. Sometimes they are left on the ridge in a dense planting, but this should not be done. To accelerate fruiting, they must be transplanted into soil rich in nutrients and adapted to the given breed and at such a distance that the plants are well ventilated and fully exposed to sunlight. The distance between them should be from 1.5 to 2 m. In the first years, you can use the free space between the seedlings with an intermediate culture of small plants that do not deplete the soil. Planting holes prepared in advance should be wider than deep. Before planting in the ground, the tree is carefully removed from the pot, the ends of its roots are cut, and then the roots are sprinkled with nutrient soil, which is slightly pressed down from above. A cup of each tree is well covered with manure straw. If the next spring is dry, the trees should be watered several times.

Growing seedlings Each seedling is supported, to which the tree is then tied up so that it acquires a vertical direction and has protection from gusts of wind. To give a symmetrical shape to young trees means to delay their fruiting. It is enough to pinch too long lateral branches and destroy the branches covered with thorns. It is difficult to determine the quality of young seedlings by appearance, so they must be preserved until fruiting.

How to deal with seedlings with wrinkled bark?

According to the instructions of V. Pashkevich, the trees that have dried up from poor packing should first be buried in the ground, thoroughly watered with water, and only after a two-day stay in the ground they should be taken out and, having refreshed the cuts, immersed in water for 10–12 hours. After planting, wrap the trunk and branches with moss and spray the latter daily until offspring begin to break through the moss. Then the moss is gradually removed so as not to immediately expose the tree.

Planting trees If we keep in mind that trees can only be dug up from the beginning of October, and in November planting sometimes becomes impossible due to frost, it will become clear that sometimes the trees ordered for autumn planting may arrive too late; they have to be dug in until spring. If frosts have come, and the trees are on the way, then the place intended for digging the trees should be covered with horse manure so that the soil does not freeze, since pinning in frozen ground is very difficult and harmful. But for those gardeners who prefer spring planting, it can be advised to write out trees in the fall and dig them in for the winter so that they can plant in early spring, which is of great importance for success. It is especially harmful to plant trees in late spring, when the buds are already beginning to bloom. When extracting trees in the autumn for spring planting, it must be borne in mind that the roots do not stop vital activity even after the leaves have fallen. It has been noticed that even after the leaves have fallen off, the roots form influxes in P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

places damaged during discharge, or on artificial sections. That is why it is very important to prune the roots when digging trees in the autumn, and not to postpone this operation until spring (cutting the roots before planting, or the so-called freshening of the roots). If you carefully cut the roots (as well as before planting) and then dig in the trees, then in the fall, sagging forms, and such trees take root sooner and are better accepted in the spring.

Planting Trees on Sandy Soils Planting fruit trees on sandy soils can be very risky, as the trees suffer greatly from lack of water. A few years ago it was suggested special way planting fruit trees on such soils, and numerous experiments show that this method gives nice results, at least in the first years the trees grow well. True, this method is painstaking and expensive, but after all, only amateurs, for whom the question of high cost is not of decisive importance, can lay gardens on unsuitable soil. First of all, an ordinary planting hole is dug, but of a large diameter and depth, that is, at least 1–1.5 m deep and the same width. The landing pit should expand downwards, and the bottom has the shape of a saucer. A layer of greasy clay of 6–9 cm is poured on the bottom and compacted tightly. Thus, something like a pot that does not let water through is obtained. Of course, it is better to fill the hole with good earth, but if this is difficult, then you can fill it with the same earth, and add manure to the top layer. With frequent (every 2–3 years) application of manure to the topsoil, trees grow satisfactorily even on sandy soil.

Harm from deep planting Roots require heat, air and moisture to reach them freely in order to develop properly. If not, the roots begin to ache. If the root is sick, so is the tree.

A deeply planted tree gives weak growth, is easily overgrown with moss, lichens, is attacked by garden worms and all sorts of other pests, and also suffers more from frost, burns, cancer, leaf spot, etc. Stone fruit trees such as cherries, plums, sweet cherries, apricots and peaches, when planted deep, are especially easily affected by a dangerous disease - the expiration of gum, which is not so easy to fight. Leaves on deeply planted trees rarely develop well. Such trees suffer from thinness and dying off of branches, even in young plantings. All of the above leads to the fact that deeply planted trees bear little or no fruit and dry out prematurely.

How far apart should trees be planted?

It is necessary to plant trees at such a distance that later, when the trees grow (in 18–20 years), the branches of one tree would not touch the branches of another. A tree for healthy growth and good fruiting requires a lot of air and a lot of light, and therefore it must stand freely and be illuminated from all sides by the sun. Trees in densely planted gardens do not grow well, suffering greatly from moss, lichen, harmful insects and fungal diseases, like scab and fruit rot. Trees in such orchards produce poorly developed and poorly colored fruits. Dense planting greatly slows down work when spraying trees with liquids that kill harmful insects and fungi. The distance between the trees depends on the choice of varieties, position, terrain and the degree of soil fertility. In the middle provinces, it is customary to plant apple trees at least 8 m apart. Varieties with a very spreading crown, such as Antonovka, plant a tree 10 m from the tree. Plant pears at a distance of 7 m, cherries - at 3.5-4 m and plums - at 5.5 m from each other.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

When, how, what width and depth to dig holes?

For planting in the spring, the pits must be dug out in the fall, but for the autumn planting

- no later than June. The longer the pits remain open, the better the earth will fluff up, and therefore become more permeable to the roots. The width of the pit should be at least 1.5 m, but 2 m is better, since the roots of fruit trees, especially apple trees, go wide, not deep. For cherries, a width of 1 m is sufficient. The depth of the pit in the middle and northern provinces should be 50 cm and at most 70 cm. Heaps of discarded earth should be shoveled every 3-4 weeks so that the earth fluffs up better.

How and how should the soil thrown out of the pits be fertilized, which will go to backfill the roots?

If the pits are dug in undepleted, loose and previously well-fertilized soil, then it is possible to plant without adding fertilizer to the soil taken out of the pit, but such cases are rare.

Usually, trees are planted in places that have been under crops for decades and were poorly fertilized, and therefore the land thrown out of the pits must be fertilized with overripe manure before planting, but by no means fresh. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that in the manure there are no larvae of the May beetle, which eats the roots. In the black earth zone, and especially in places where the soil is poor in lime, it is extremely useful, especially for cherries, plums, and stone fruits in general, to mix 2-3 buckets of old, completely quenched lime into the earth taken out of the pits. It is useful to add peat to the ground, well weathered and ground into coarse flour (3-4 buckets per pit). Peat retains moisture, prevents soil compaction and strongly promotes the formation of root hairs.

When and how to drive a stake to which a tree will be tied after planting?

In provinces subject to strong winds, it is impossible to plant a tree, especially with an average stem (half stem), without tying it to a stake. The stake must be perfectly even and well-peeled. The thickness of the stake must be at least 5 cm.

A stake should be driven into the middle of the hole on the sunny side in order to protect the trunk of the tree from heating by the sun.

How long before planting should the holes be filled?

The pits are filled in a month before planting to allow the earth to settle, which will prevent the tree from sinking too much. Having driven in a stake, the pit is filled with the upper (soil) layer of earth, improved fertilizer (as mentioned above) to more than 1/4 of its depth, and in the middle of the pit, near the stake, it is necessary to pour a rather high mound, on which the roots of the tree will fall when planting. Backfilling is done in such a way that the best earth is laid where the roots will sit.

Remedy for Harmful Deep Planting of Fruit Trees All trees suffering from deep planting are dug in with a ring groove, the diameter of the ring gradually decreasing as the groove deepens, until the tree can barely hold on to the lowest few root forks. After P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

they cover this lump with matting, tightly tie it with ropes, put thick boards under it on both sides and carefully raise the tree together with the lump itself to the proper height, and immediately pour earth under it and trample down hard.

When in this way all the empty space under the lump and around it is filled, the pit is filled up. This technique completely corrects the wrong deep landing. The results of such a correction can be judged by the fact that out of 200 fruit trees aged 8–15 years, in which a deep planting was corrected in the described way, every one without the slightest sickness underwent this operation, and their growth was corrected and the whole planting seemed to be at once revived. Along the way, during this work, fertilizer can be applied if necessary, and in the spring it is necessary to do the appropriate pruning of the crowns.

Method for preparing holes and soil for planting fruit trees in sandy soil On pure sandy soil, fruit trees do extremely poorly without proper soil preparation. Usually, when planting trees, they dig holes of appropriate sizes without preliminary soil preparation on the site. For apple and pear trees, the pits are made as large as possible, taking out at least one cube of earth, and for plums, cherries and sweet cherries - half the size. These pits are always dug in advance, that is, when planting trees in autumn, pits are dug in spring or early summer, and when planting in spring, always from autumn.

The most suitable soil for backfilling holes in sandy soil is 1/3 clay, 1/3 top local soil and 1/3 humus with a little lime added. It is very useful in this case to make as much compost as possible, if it is at hand. However, even with such careful preparation, fruit trees will grow well only with abundant watering throughout the summer. In general, the cultivation of fruit trees on purely sandy soil is very expensive, and even with good care, the trees on it grow and bear fruit for a short time. Therefore, such a planting can only be recommended to amateurs, and then in a very limited size (up to 10–15 trees).

The most suitable are dwarf trees, which are also more durable there. And yet, on sandy soil, fruit trees can grow beautifully and produce good yields if the subsoil is clay. In this case, if more than 20 trees are planted on the site, then it should be preferred not to prepare the soil separately for the pits, but to prepare the soil by passing the entire site with a sufficient amount of compost or rotted manure with the addition of lime.

Spring planting with water The earth is thrown into the planting hole up to about half and straightens out not in the form of a mound, as usual, but on the contrary - in the form of a funnel. Water is poured almost to the top here. They insert roots into the water and quickly pour fine earth from both sides with shovels so that the earth does not fall in heaps, but slides off the shovel and falls like peas.

As the pit is filled with earth, the water rises higher and higher, and so that it does not overflow, the pit is surrounded by a roller of earth and the latter continues to be poured, forming an earthen mound around the tree. When planting in water, the general conditions are observed: cuts are smoothed at the ends of the roots, they are planted in such a way that the root collar is at ground level, but the roots are not trampled down and pressed down. The mound is poured higher, and in this state the tree remains for at least a day, so that the water finally disperses through the pit and is absorbed into the soil. On the second day after planting, the mounds are compared to the ground, and then trunk circles or holes are made, which are shaded with straw. When landing, P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

under a stake or groove, this work is done in this way. The first worker walks ahead along the stretched cord and makes holes at a certain distance with a large round wooden stake. The second worker inserts the wilds, the third one half fills each hole with water, the fourth one presses the wet earth to the root with a hand-held flat iron peg and levels the hole. When planting wilds with water, one should not rush to press the ground to the root with a hand peg until the water in the hole enters the ground, otherwise the water will splash out. If the wilds are planted with a groove, then the roots of the wilds are covered with earth to half, and then the groove is filled with water and leveled with earth. When planting with water, there is not only no loss when the planting is done in a timely manner, but even when the plants are received sluggish or blooming. Planted in this way, they soon recover and give a good growth. The advantages of landing with water over other methods are as follows:

1. The distribution of the roots in the water hole corresponds to their natural distribution in the soil from where they were taken out for planting.

2. The roots do not stick together, since they, being in the water, were covered with earth, which fell on the surface of the water, and not directly on the roots.

3. Water poured into the hole remains under the root and serves as a long-term supply for saturating the roots with moisture.

4. Trees planted in spring in water require almost no watering during the whole summer.

Planting annuals In order to reduce the cost of planting, it is recommended to plant annual buds, that is, young trees representing one shoot without a crown. However, the results of such a landing in most cases are unsuccessful. This is due to the unsatisfactory growth conditions of planted annuals in the first year. It is possible to recommend planting one-year-olds only if there is a full hope of getting a normal crown in the first year, in other words, if there is reason to expect increased growth.

For such enhanced growth, the following conditions are necessary: ​​well-developed trees (one-year-olds) with an abundant root system, fertile and well-prepared soil, timely and carefully performed planting, watering in case of drought, complete protection from insects, etc. In addition, exceptionally strong-growing varieties are suitable for planting with annual budding, since low-growing varieties, even under the most favorable crop conditions, do not form a crown in the year of planting. The planting of annual buds is applicable only if the so-called half stems are obtained, since only in this case it is possible to make a strong pruning, which contributes to the increased growth of the shoots that form the crown. The need to comply with the above conditions is explained by the fact that in the event of the formation of weak shoots of the crown in the first year, the latter can only be corrected later with great difficulty. Therefore, since we do not have firm confidence in increased growth, it is much more rational to plant with crown trees. All of the above applies exclusively to pome fruits, that is, to the apple tree and pear.

Stone fruits, especially peach and apricot, are planted as annuals as a general rule.

Deep planting of apple trees Deep planting of apple trees and other fruit trees is certainly harmful. It stops the further growth of trees to the strongest extent, and therefore a garden with deep-planted trees will constantly suffer from various diseases. But how to determine that the seedlings in the garden are planted deep? There are three clear signs, with the help of PN Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

which each gardener can easily determine how deep the seedlings sit in the ground: 1. The trunks of deeply planted seedlings do not have a normal, barely noticeable thickening near the soil, which determines the normal growth of the tree.

The trunk of a deeply planted tree is almost uniform in thickness from soil to crown.

It's such feature deep planting, that from it the experienced eye of a gardener-practitioner immediately recognizes the reason for the slow growth of trees, without even resorting to digging the earth. 2.

The root neck of a seedling during normal planting should be sprinkled with earth no more than 5 or 8 cm. By external signs, the beginning of the root neck can be determined as follows: if a green color is noticed when scraping the bark with a knife, then it is still part of the stem (trunk), and if it is yellow, then root. It is this last one that should be sprinkled with earth by 5–8 cm. 3. Deep-planted trees, after 5–10 years, suffer from partial dying (slow drying) of branches for no apparent reason.

Pruning the roots when planting The question of pruning the roots when planting fruit trees is not so simple, and, in any case, it is impossible to give a definite indication of how the roots should be pruned. The method of pruning depends on the age of the trees, species, soil, planting method, etc. Young trees tolerate heavy pruning more easily than older trees. On this basis, when planting young trees, the roots are cut more strongly. This refers to some significant advantages due to increased root pruning. So, when planting rootstocks in a nursery, especially if we postpone this work until spring, increased pruning of the roots will make it possible to speed up the work so much that two workers manage to plant up to two or more thousand pieces a day. The second advantage of short root pruning is that in early spring the cuts are less prone to rot. The fact is that long roots with weak pruning are, of course, located in deeper and colder soil layers in spring, where conditions for decay are more favorable. Finally, with short pruning of rootstocks planted in the nursery, secondary root branches are formed closer to the soil surface, which subsequently facilitates the digging and then planting of young trees. Thus, when planting rootstocks in a nursery, most gardeners quite correctly prefer short pruning. Rootstocks are usually left with roots no longer than 6–9 cm long.

When planting older trees, the decision on the degree of pruning of the roots is more difficult. Theoretically, the roots should be cut as little as possible, especially since a significant part of the roots is already lost when trees are dug out of the nursery. It would seem that the success of planting is all the more assured, the more roots are left at the planted tree. In reality, here, too, one has to reckon with the possibility of dying off of roots in deep, cold layers of soil, especially on cohesive and moist soils.

This is why shorter pruning should be preferred when planting fruit trees in such soils. In the same way, short pruning should be preferred when planting by inexperienced workers, in order to avoid bending the roots.

Finally, there are a number of species that, when planted, form young roots near the root collar, such as apricot, dusen, partly paradiska and quince. It is clear that such rocks should be cut shorter, since all the same long roots subsequently die off.

In this regard, apricot is especially sensitive. It has been repeatedly observed that trees grafted to apricot develop the sooner and more successfully in a new place, the more the roots were cut off during planting. Even with very short pruning, when only the main roots were left, and even then no longer than 6-9 cm, the trees grafted to the apricot were perfectly accepted and gave a luxurious root system by the end of the first growing season.

P. N. Steinberg. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

A Method of Preserving Planting Material on Ice In order to send twelve tall cherries to Sweden, where they should arrive no earlier than planting time in May, a gardener in Schwetzingen dug up a double batch of trees in the winter and, after dipping the roots in a clay solution, placed them in the ice of a brewery. Despite the cold, in early May, the buds began to open. Twelve trees, more retarded in development, were sent to their destination, then planted and well received. Unsent copies were landed at home and, despite the great heat and late landing, everyone set to work.

What to do with untimely received fruit seedlings?

When sending trees, two cases can occur: 1) the trees are dried up, with shriveled bark; 2) the trees get slightly frozen. Both in the first and in the second cases, immediately upon receipt, they are buried, unpacked, in damp earth to a depth of 1–1.5 m in an inclined position. In the spring, during planting, damaged areas are carefully cut out. Further care consists in the fact that the boles of dried trees are wrapped with moss and then they are sprayed daily with clean and cold water until the onset of hot weather. Thanks to such techniques, the tree comes to life completely. Frozen trees always sprout from their surviving parts. If these shoots break through from old wood, then spraying is necessary to strengthen them, but if from young wood, the latter is unnecessary.

How to plant fruit trees in areas flooded with hollow water?

In order to plant a plot filled with hollow water with fruit trees, there are three ways. The first is planting them on round mounds that are not covered with water. The mounds should have a wide base - from 2 to 4 m in diameter - and a height consistent with the level to which the water rises. High and narrow mounds in wattle, for example, should not be done. The trees in them, although well accepted, freeze through in winter, and the planting dies. The second way is to keep plantings on the glacier until the water subsides, after which they are planted in their places. The third is the best and surest, this is planting trees in early spring in small baskets with good soil and storing them somewhere in an unflooded place until the water subsides. After the water subsides, the trees that have taken root and blossomed are planted together with baskets in places in the garden, where they, without stopping in growth, manage to get stronger before winter so that they can easily endure the floods of the next year and further ones.

Cultivation of rootstocks of the paradise apple tree (paradiski) Reproduction of the paradise apple tree, or paradiski, is produced, as you know, asexually - by layering, and not by seeds.

To obtain rootstocks of a paradise apple tree, proceed as follows:

1. Young plants are planted in rows at a distance of 1.5 m, while the aerial part is cut off, leaving only the top no more than 6–9 cm above the surface. Such shortening is done in order for the plant to develop more root offspring. The next spring, before the development of the buds, layering is done, for which PN Steinberg is produced on annual shoots. “Everyday gardener's recipe. Gardener's golden book, time-tested

an oblique incision about 6 cm long. So that the separated part does not grow back, a pebble or a dry piece of a branch is placed in the split. Then the layers are bent into a groove prepared near them with a depth of about 6-9 cm, where they are strengthened with wooden hooks and covered with nutritious loose earth, and the upper end of the branch is given a vertical direction.

2. Annual shoots in early spring before bud development are wrapped twice with thin wire and covered with earth. When the branch grows due to its thickening, the wire cuts into the bark, which causes an influx, and roots appear from it.

3. Annual shoots in the spring, before the development of the buds, bend down into a prepared depression of 6–9 cm and strengthen with wooden hooks. When shoots 6–14 cm high appear from the buds, on the uterine branch near each young shoot, on both opposite sides, at a distance of 5–8 cm from the bottom, cuts are made to the core and covered with earth. It is possible not to make cuts, but when cuts, more roots are formed.

4. When young shoots grow 9–14 cm high, two cuts are made at their base from opposite sides, or a narrow strip is removed to the bark wood and covered with earth. You can not make incisions, but then fewer roots are formed.

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Steinberg Pavel Nikolaevich
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Pavel Nikolaevich Steinberg(1867-1942) - professor at the Petrograd Agronomic Institute, author of books on horticulture and horticulture.

Biography

Until 1917 he was the editor of the journal Progressive Horticulture and Horticulture.

Since 1919 - professor at the Petrograd (Leningrad) Agricultural Institute (now St. Petersburg State Agrarian University). From 1922 to 1929 - the first head of the department of vegetable growing of this institute, taught a course on open and protected ground vegetable growing. Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, famous scientist, erudite and encyclopedist.

He wrote many articles and compiled over one hundred and fifty books, which taught millions of farmers.

Pavel Nikolaevich Steinberg maintained friendly relations with famous contemporaries: P. P. Soikin, A. N. Tolstoy, V. Ya. Shishkov, Ya. I. Perelman.

Bibliography

see also

• History of St. Petersburg State Agrarian University

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Notes

Links

• http://spbgau.ru/museum/istoriya_vuza

An excerpt characterizing Steinberg, Pavel Nikolaevich

When the ambulance finally arrived, the doctor who examined me could not understand what had happened and why I was not bleeding with such a deep wound. What he didn't know was that not only did I not bleed, but I also didn't feel any pain at all! I saw the wound with my own eyes and, according to all the laws of nature, I should have felt a wild pain ... which, oddly enough, in this case was not at all. I was taken to the hospital and prepared to be stitched up.
When I said that I did not want anesthesia, the doctor looked at me as if I were a quiet lunatic and prepared to give an anesthetic injection. Then I told him that I would scream ... This time he looked at me very carefully and, nodding his head, began to sew up. It was very strange to watch how my flesh was pierced with a long needle, and I, instead of something very painful and unpleasant, felt only a slight “mosquito” bite. The doctor watched me all the time and asked several times if everything was all right with me. I answered yes. Then he asked if this always happens to me? I said no, just now.
I don’t know whether he was a very “advanced” doctor for that time, or whether I somehow managed to convince him, but, one way or another, he believed me and did not ask any more questions. About an hour later I was already at home and with pleasure devoured warm grandmother's pies in the kitchen, not eating at all and sincerely surprised at such a wild feeling of hunger, as if I had not eaten for several days. Now, of course, I already understand that it was simply too much loss of energy after my “self-treatment”, which urgently needed to be restored, but then, of course, I still could not know this.
The second case of the same strange self-anaesthesia occurred during an operation that our family doctor, Dana, persuaded us to go for. As far as I could remember, my mother and I often had a sore throat. This happened not only from a cold in winter, but also in summer, when it was very dry and warm outside. As soon as we overheated a little, our sore throat was here, as it were, and made us lie in bed without getting out for a week or two, which my mother and I equally disliked. And so, after consulting, we finally decided to heed the voice of "professional medicine" and remove what so often prevented us from living a normal life (although, as it turned out later, there was no need to remove this, and this, again, was another mistake of our "omniscient "doctors).
The operation was scheduled for one of the weekdays, when my mother, like everyone else, naturally worked. She and I agreed that first, in the morning, I would go for the operation, and after work, she would do it. But my mother ironically promised that she would definitely try to come at least for half an hour before the doctor starts to “gut” me. Oddly enough, I didn’t feel fear, but there was some kind of aching feeling of uncertainty. It was the first operation in my life and I had no idea how it would happen.
From the very morning, like a lion cub in a cage, I walked back and forth along the corridor, waiting for when all this would finally begin. Then, as now, what I disliked the most was waiting for anything or anyone. And I have always preferred the most unpleasant reality to any "fluffy" uncertainty. When I knew what was happening and how, I was ready to fight it or, if necessary, to solve something. In my understanding, there were no unsolvable situations - there were only indecisive or indifferent people. Therefore, even then, in the hospital, I really wanted to get rid of the “trouble” hanging over my head as soon as possible and to know that it was already behind ...
I never liked hospitals. The sight of so many suffering people in the same room inspired me with real horror. I wanted, but could not help them in any way, and at the same time I felt their pain as strongly (apparently completely “turning on”), as if it were mine. I tried to somehow protect myself from this, but it fell like a real avalanche, leaving not the slightest opportunity to get away from all this pain. I wanted to close my eyes, withdraw into myself and run, without turning around from all this, as far as possible and as quickly as possible ...
Mom still did not appear and I began to get nervous that something would definitely delay her and she, most likely, would not be able to come. By this time, I was already tired of walking and sat ruffled at the door of the doctor on duty, hoping that someone would still come out and I would not have to wait any longer. A few minutes later, a very pleasant doctor on duty actually appeared and said that my operation could begin in half an hour ... if, of course, I was ready for this. I was ready for a long time, but I just couldn’t decide to do it without waiting for my mother, as she promised to be on time, and we were used to always keeping promises.
But, to my great chagrin, time passed, and no one appeared. It got harder and harder for me to wait. Finally, in a fighting way, I decided that it would probably be better if I went now, then this whole nightmare would be behind me much faster. I gathered all my will into a fist and said that I was ready to go now, if, of course, he could accept me.